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Welcome to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Blog

This is where we aim to provide you with valuable scientific information and insights into the industry. The material published by the SCC Blog has been contributed by highly recognized professionals within the cosmetics and personal care industry.

The topics are of interest to a wide audience and will range from technical information on In Vivo Testing Methods, Nail Structure and Dermatological research to Techniques/Hints and Tips on Product Formulation, the Latest Trends in Hair Care and various ‘How to’ Articles.

 

 

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A naturally luxurious experience in shampoos and cleansers

Shampoo and cleansing systems such as shower crèmes and hand soaps typically rely on water insoluble ingredients such as: natural or silicone oils for conditioning; visual enhancers, e.g. opacifiers and mica for appearance; and particulates e.g. scalp care actives for health or natural scrubbing agents for exfoliation. These essential ingredients are typically...

 

 

Curly Chemistry

Women of color are becoming more aware of what they’re using, understanding ingredients, and are expecting a level of performance that meets their unique needs.  Ethnic hair is the most unique and versatile hair with over 6-9 different types sprawling from wavy, curly, to kinky. 

In this article, YouTuber Tanya Lane shares information that she has gathered from her viewers on ingredients and product concepts that have helped them the most.  The purpose of this article is to help guide your formulations based on the top three needs of ethnic consumers.

 

 

Water Conservation

World Water Day was March 22, 2020 but there’s a high chance that most of the world overlooked this event in the wake of COVID-19. Mintel has reported that by 2025, 1.8 billion people will be living in countries with absolute water scarcity and two-thirds of the world’s population will be under water-stressed conditions. These numbers while scary, tell us that action needs to be taken now to ensure that we are prepared for the future.

There are many ways for us to be mindful of our water consumption, both in our personal and professional lives.

 

 

There is life after PEGS

Recently the New York State Legislature passed a bill that prohibits the sale of cosmetics, personal care or cleaning products containing trace amounts of 1,4-Dioxane. The threshold contamination for leave-on cosmetics is not to exceed 10 parts per million and for rinse-off personal care products such as shampoos and cleansers (i.e. mostly down the drain products) it is 2 parts per million by December 31, 2022 and not to exceed 1 part per million by December 31, 2023. These levels will be reviewed again in 2025 and every two years after that, hence they may be lowered even further.

 

 

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How much do you know about Skin Microbiome and the impact that skincare products have on your skin?

Now becoming a focus in skin health and cosmetics industries, the skin microbiome is the network of bacteria that makes their home on the surface of our bodies. This community of bacteria communicate and collaborate to keep the skin in a healthy condition. How much do you know about Skin Microbiome and the impact that skincare products have on your skin?

 

 

Molecular Biology, Gene Expression, and the Prospects for Personalized Cosmetics

Genetic testing has expanded to the cosmetics industry for evaluation of ingredients that can be optimally paired with consumers based on a gene analysis of the individual. Read this blog post to learn more about Molecular Biology, Gene Expression, and the Prospects for Personalized Cosmetics.

 

 

How much do you really know about Fats and Oils?

​Fats and oils are ubiquitous in personal care and cosmetic formulations. Here we’ll go through a brief overview of how the molecular structure of triglycerides, and the fatty acids that comprise them, determine the interdependent properties of oxidative stability, melt profile, and compatibility of different oils and fats.  Knowing how these properties determine the unique characteristics of particular oils and fats can help us to make better choices for different product applications.

 

Tension at the Interface

Navigating the interfacial tension between a formulation chemist and a salesperson – when navigated successfully, this relationship can benefit everyone.

 

 

 

Viscosity, Rheology and Rheology Modifiers

The physical form of any personal care product is one of the first attributes that potential customers evaluate when considering purchasing a product, along with color and fragrance. If the form doesn’t allow for easy access from the package or smooth application, customers may not purchase or repurchase. Even the way a product flows while in the package can impact this perception. Another reason to measure this is to ensure that your products are uniform and reproducible. Although this is commonly referred to as viscosity, the accurate scientific term is rheology and there is more to it than simple viscosity.

 

 

How To Maximize The Bioactive Efficacy Of Your Formula

Bio-actives in your formula drive the claims that you will be able to make in your advertising copy. In order to build a successful product that gives your customer the desired results, your goal is to make sure you are delivering the highest efficacy from your formulations… How do you go about choosing which ingredient or combination of ingredients to use to support the claims you want to make on your new product(s)?

 

 

Mentoring Matters: Strategies to get Most out of a Mentor-Mentee Relationship

Mentoring is the ability to guide, support, and nurture others while inspiring them to bring out the best in themselves.

The cosmetic industry, while spread out across the world, is truly a small family where everyone is connected, especially these days in the internet era. A couple of decades ago, the beauty industry was quite unknown to most and entrants stumbled in by chance coming from pharma, chemical engineering, biochemistry, or allied industries. Today, there are entrants to the World-of-Beauty from various disciplines through specialized educational programs. 

There is also an influx of people with young creative minds and influencers who have tasted fame on social media and have become overnight entrepreneurs. However, even with the wealth of information available, there is still a need for the true guidance of...

 

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Simple, Safe and Sustainable: Why Lamellar Gel Network Emulsions are the Natural Solution for Personal Care

The chemicals and synthetic ingredients that were once relied on to give creams and lotions their smooth, creamy and luxurious textures are now being shunned by consumers in preference for the environmental and beauty benefits of natural and organic ingredients. But what does natural really mean when it comes to personal care products? And how can formulators harness the power of natural ingredients...

 

 

Natural vs. High-Tech Skincare Products?

We understand that the consumer decision to purchase, repurchase, and tell everyone (online) how thrilled they are with the product is both emotional and rational. If we would like to reconcile competing forces of natural and high-tech in order to control the narrative of the consumer decision, we must go back to first principles of formulating.

 

 

Follow the Yellow Brick Road: Introducing the QSAR Paradigm to the Cosmetic Sector (Conclusion)

A curious and personal tale of how one organic-medicinal chemist, originally steering towards a career in the pharmaceutical or agricultural chemicals industry, found himself, instead, seeking a path to introduce the QSAR Paradigm to the cosmetic industry and, later, to the cosmetic regulatory environment at the U.S. FDA.

 

 

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How to Apply for the USDA BioPreferred Label

The BioPreferred Voluntary Labeling program is open to all biobased products, including products imported for sale in the U.S. as long as they meet the biobased content requirements for the product category. Interested parties may also contact the USDA to get a preliminary assessment on product eligibility if the manufacturer is not based in the U.S.

The USDA BioPreferred certification is free so participants will only need to pay for the laboratory analysis of product samples.

 

 

 

Follow the Yellow Brick Road: Introducing the QSAR Paradigm to the Cosmetic Sector (Part 2)

A curious and personal tale of how one organic-medicinal chemist, originally steering towards a career in the pharmaceutical or agricultural chemicals industry, found himself, instead, seeking a path to introduce the QSAR Paradigm to the cosmetic industry and, later, to the cosmetic regulatory environment at the U.S. FDA.

 

 

Confessions at the Beauty Counter

Despite our best efforts to “educate” consumers, they will use the wrong products. In this month’s blog post, read how one consumer’s skincare routine is a BIG no-no!

 

 

Follow the Yellow Brick Road: Introducing the QSAR Paradigm to the Cosmetic Sector (Part 1)

A curious and personal tale of how one organic-medicinal chemist, originally steering towards a career in the pharmaceutical or agricultural chemicals industry, found himself, instead, seeking a path to introduce the QSAR Paradigm to the cosmetic industry and, later, to the cosmetic regulatory environment at the U.S. FDA.

 

 

Sustainability and the USDA BioPreferred® Program

A widely-accepted definition for the term “sustainable” comes from the Brundtland Report which was commissioned by the United Nations in 1987. It defines “sustainable development” as development that, “meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.” So, how to achieve sustainable development? According to the Shelton Group survey, 56% of respondents said certifications make products more reputable. This validation from a reputable third party that a product is green makes a strong case with many consumers.

 

 

Colors in Cosmetics – The Importance of Dispersion

The incorporation of color in cosmetic and personal care products is part art and part science. What seems like a simple and fun exercise in pigment blending is reliant on a complex set of decisions. Factors such as the regulatory environment, cost, and stability as well as physical and chemical properties of each colorant all play an essential role in determining success in product development. Dispersion is one most important processes in utilizing pigments to create color cosmetics.