3:00 PM - 5:00 PM | Session K: Formulation Excellence - Stability by Design
Smart Encapsulation: Beyond Delivery & Sustained Performance
Presented by
Anne Young, PhD
Croda, Inc.
Abstract
Skincare innovation has long prioritized discovering new actives over optimizing their delivery — yet even potent ingredients fail if they degrade before reaching their target. This work shows that smart lipid carrier technology is a universal strategy for unlocking the full potential of structurally diverse cosmetic actives through enhanced protection, controlled release, and targeted delivery. SAXS, TEM, and DLS confirmed distinct active positioning across oil-core, waxy-interface, and multilayered architectures. Release kinetics and UV/thermal/pH/oxidative stability were characterized, alongside ex vivo immunostaining and double-blind clinical testing. Encapsulation reduced retinol UV degradation 2.2-fold, extended collagen peptide half-life from 60 min to 20h, and slowed release up to 37x. Encapsulated peptides amplified collagen synthesis in skin explants and drove stronger clinical outcomes (+25% vs. +17% firmness; 63% vs. 37% tone homogeneity). These results establish delivery design as equally critical as active selection, setting a new standard for evidence-based, delivery-led cosmetic innovation.
Speaker Biography
Anne Young, Ph.D., is the Technical Business Development Manager for Croda Beauty’s Beauty Actives business in North America. In this role, she identifies and drives strategic growth opportunities, leads customer engagement, and translates complex technical insights into impactful commercial strategies. With extensive experience across the beauty and personal care industry, Anne brings expertise in product development, technical sales, innovation management, and global business development. She earned her Ph.D. in Chemistry from New York University, where her research focused on peptide science and biomolecular technologies. Throughout her career, Anne has held leadership and strategic positions at BioCogent, BASF, Expanscience Laboratoires, L’Oréal, and Johnson & Johnson. In these roles, she has bridged science and business to accelerate innovation, build customer partnerships, and drive commercial growth across beauty and personal care markets. Her combination of technical expertise, market insight, and business acumen helps brands bring innovative, science-backed solutions to consumers while supporting long-term business success.
Resolving the Barrier–Delivery Trade-Off: Functional Roles of Hydrogenated and Unsaturated Phospholipids in Cosmetic Systems
Presented by
Alexander Aydt
Lipoid Kosmetik AG
Abstract
Phospholipids are widely used in cosmetic formulations for skin barrier support and active delivery, yet differences in phospholipid structure can substantially influence how they interact with the skin. This study compares hydrogenated and unsaturated phospholipids to investigate how hydrogenation state affects skin localization and delivery performance. Tape stripping combined with shotgun lipidomics was used to characterize the distribution of hydrogenated phospholipids within upper epidermal layers, while Franz diffusion cell studies evaluated the influence of unsaturated phospholipids on the delivery of hydrophilic and lipophilic actives. Results demonstrate distinct, complementary behaviors. Hydrogenated phospholipids preferentially accumulate within upper epidermal layers and integrate into the stratum corneum lipid matrix, supporting barrier reinforcement. Unsaturated phospholipids penetrate more deeply and enhance active delivery. These findings establish a structure-function relationship that can help formulators select naturally derived, biomimetic phospholipid systems according to the desired specific formulation objective: barrier support, active delivery, or a strategic combination of both.
Speaker Biography
Alex is a Director at Lipoid who has been with the company for 4 years. Prior to Lipoid, he completed his Ph.D. in Chemistry at Columbia University. Today, he is happy to work with Lipoid’s West Coast customers in both cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications as they solve complex formulation problems with phospholipids. He lives in San Mateo, CA with a terrier who craves bacon above all else.
A Computational Framework for Predictive Stability Assessment Across Multiphase Cosmetic Systems Using Molecular Descriptor and Formulation Architecture Mapping
Presented by
Saranya Yamunan
Texas Woman's University
Abstract
Stability assessment remains a major challenge in cosmetic formulation development, particularly for multiphase systems and active-rich formulations. This work presents a computational framework integrating molecular descriptors, formulation architecture, molecular dynamics, and distribution-based analyses to investigate early indicators of instability. For emulsion systems, the framework evaluates emulsifier organization and retention at the oil–water interface, molecular mobility, phase distribution, and structural reorganization under thermal and compositional stress. For active-rich systems, it examines concentration-dependent interactions, pH-responsive molecular environments, aggregation tendency, active–excipient compatibility, and susceptibility to degradation. Preliminary simulations are identifying energetic, interfacial, and structural changes that may precede macroscopic instability, including loss of interfacial cohesion, phase separation, and unfavorable molecular association. Future work will integrate simulation-derived descriptors with experimental stability data and machine-learning models to develop predictive stability maps capable of ranking formulation robustness, identifying failure mechanisms, and prioritizing experimental testing during product development across broader formulation spaces and accelerated stress conditions efficiently.
Speaker Biography
Saranya Yamunan is a formulation scientist and graduate chemistry researcher with nearly a decade of experience developing products across skincare, hair care, sun care, cleansers, color cosmetics, and other personal care categories for multiple consumer brands. She is currently pursuing an M.S. in Chemistry at Texas Woman’s University, where her work focuses on computational chemistry, molecular modeling, and data-driven approaches to chemical research. Her scientific interests lie at the intersection of formulation science, molecular simulation, predictive modeling, and machine learning. Drawing from extensive hands-on formulation experience across diverse product categories, She is particularly interested in how molecular simulation and machine learning can complement traditional formulation development, reduce trial-and-error experimentation, and support more efficient and sustainable product innovation. Saranya’s long-term goal is to bridge practical formulation experience with emerging computational approaches to help advance the future of cosmetic science and product development.
The Hidden Power of Neutralizers: How Neutralizer Choice Shapes Performance Across Personal Care Formulations
Presented by
Heather Dusek
Advancion
Abstract
This work examines how neutralizer chemistry, selection, and order of addition can influence key formulation properties and demonstrates why neutralizers should be considered functional performance ingredients rather than simply pH-adjusting agents. Neutralizers are essential formulation tools in personal care, influencing far more than final pH. Through their interactions with polymers, fatty acids, pigments, and other formulation components, neutralizers can affect rheology development, viscosity, clarity, stability, processing efficiency, and ultimately product performance. Amino alcohols offer a particularly versatile approach, combining effective neutralization with multifunctional benefits across applications ranging from hair styling and skin care to color cosmetics and hair colorants. Neutralizer choice is a critical formulation decision that influences processing, rheology, stability, aesthetics, and consumer performance, revealing the often-overlooked hidden power of neutralizers in personal care products.
Speaker Biography
Heather Dusek has over 15 years in the beauty and personal care world. She’s the North American Personal Care Account Manager at Advancion, based in Chicago. Heather started out as a formulator at Alberto Culver (now part of Unilever) and built deep expertise in hair styling products. She later focused on amino alcohols and botanicals, becoming a go-to for innovative solutions. Now, she combines her technical know-how with strong client relationships to deliver tailored results.
Presentation on Rheology Topic
Presented by
Reinhold H. Dauskardt, Ph.D.
Stanford University
Abstract
Abstract Coming Soon
Speaker Biography
Reinhold Dauskardt is the Ruth and William Bowes Professor in the Department of Materials Science and Engineering, Mechanical Engineering, and the Department of Surgery at Stanford University, and a Visiting Professor at the Nanyang Technological University in Singapore. He is a member of Stanford Bio-X, the Cardiovascular Institute, the Wu Tsai Human Performance Alliance, and the Wu Tsai Neurosciences Institute, and an affiliate of the Precourt Institute for Energy and the Stanford Woods Institute for the Environment. His research on human skin has concentrated on understanding and controling the effects of cosmetic treatments and environmental exposures on the barrier function and biomechanics of human skin for which he was awarded the 2011 Henry Maso Award for fundamental contributions to the advancement of cosmetic and skin science. A particular current focus involves linking treatments and disrupted barrier function to the divergent neurological processes of the perception of skin comfort or tightness.