10:45 AM - 12:15 PM | Session H: Substantiating Defensible Cosmetic Claims

A Multi-Wrinkle AI Model for Consistent Wrinkle Quantification in Diverse Clinical Populations

Loïc Colomb

Presented by
Loïc Colomb

QIMA Life Sciences

Abstract

Wrinkles are major biomarkers of skin aging, and their quantification matters for assessing anti-wrinkle product efficacy. Wrinkle segmentation from standardized images remains one of the most accurate methods, but existing algorithms lack robustness across wrinkle types, phototypes, and imaging systems, requiring device-specific tuning. We designed an automatic multi-wrinkle AI model for wrinkle segmentation across ages, phototypes, and imaging systems with consistent sensitivity. Six specialized models were combined and iteratively refined by experts to build the ground truth for training a transformer-based model (SegFormer) on 257 subjects across four imaging systems, all phototypes, and ages 18-75. The model produced clinically relevant segmentations without manual correction, matching expert grading. It detected wrinkles in older subjects while avoiding over-segmentation in younger ones and across phototypes, resolved the lace-effect artifact on darker skin, generalized to high-resolution clinical images with specular reflection and extends to video for dynamic analysis. The under-eye area remains most challenging.

Speaker Biography

Loïc Colomb is a professional with close to 20 years of experience across instrumental, clinical and data-driven product assessment. As Chief Customer Officer at QIMA Life Sciences, he works with clients to build an implementation plan that identifies the evidence a study should generate, then formulates it into an outline protocol, standard or custom, that satisfies both operational and regulatory demands. He is also responsible for continuously improving internal processes and product development, and for leading innovation projects from conception to delivery. Loïc brings combined expertise in clinical assessment, image analysis and the underlying data in cosmetic research, with a focus on the evidential rigor of methods supporting product claims.


Analytical Equivalency and Conversion Efficiency of Topical Vitamin C Derivatives: Implications for Delivered L-Ascorbic Acid Dose and Clinical Relevance

Elizabeth Whitman

Presented by
Elizabeth Whitman

Exponent Beauty

Abstract

Abstract Coming Soon

Speaker Biography

Liz Whitman is Founder and CEO of Exponent Beauty, a clinical skincare company pioneering “activated skincare”—keeping fragile actives in dry, anhydrous form until the moment of use to deliver them at peak potency. Trained in cosmetic chemistry through SCC, Whitman is the first-named inventor on Exponent’s issued delivery-system patents and has commercialized the technology with Exponent Beauty, found at spas, medspas, Bluemercury and Nordstrom. Whitman’s research examines active-ingredient potency in finished products, including antioxidant degradation and vitamin C derivatives. She is now advancing bioavailability through a patent-pending transdermal platform, designed to deliver high-molecular-weight actives such as peptides deeper into skin to 8,000 microns. She also created The Exponent Standard, an evidence-based framework for evaluating skincare efficacy and a Substack focused on skincare science for the average consumer. Whitman holds degrees from Harvard College and Harvard Business School and was a 2024 BeautyMatter NEXT Innovator of the Year finalist.


Extending Hair Shine Measurement to Curly and Textured Hair: A New Framework

Dr. Thomas James Davies

Presented by
Dr. Thomas James Davies

Bossa Nova Vision / Dia-Stron Inc.

Abstract

Hair shine is a desirable visual attribute associated with perceptions of healthy, smooth, well-conditioned hair. Conventional instrumental methods typically require straight or straightened hair arranged in aligned tresses, providing robust measures of reflectance but limiting application across curly and coily hair geometries. We present an Unconstrained Shine Index (USI), a newly developed optical metric designed to complement conventional aligned methods by extending shine evaluation to freely arranged hair and supporting more inclusive testing across diverse hair types, textures, shapes, and styles. Polarization imaging separates reflected light into specular, diffuse, chromatic, and intensity components, while fiber-orientation analysis quantifies alignment and disorder. These parameters are combined to distinguish geometric effects from optical behavior. Hair tresses representing multiple hair types were evaluated before and after styling and shine-enhancing treatments using 360° image capture. This complementary approach broadens instrumental shine assessment to natural configurations and hair types not fully represented by conventional aligned methods.

Speaker Biography

Thomas Davies holds a B.Sc. in Pharmaceutical Science, an M.Sc. in Biotechnology, and a Ph.D. in Materials Science from the University of Manchester, where his research focused on keratin fiber science and the structure–property relationships of keratin fibers. He subsequently completed postdoctoral research at the University of Leeds, collaborating with industry partners on keratin fiber and textile technologies. In 2021, Thomas joined Dia-Stron as Applications Manager, leading application testing services and working with global cosmetic and consumer goods companies on hair performance testing and claims substantiation. Following Dia-Stron’s acquisition by Bossa Nova Vision in 2023, he relocated to Los Angeles, where he is now Business Development and Applications Manager. His work bridges scientific research and industrial application through the development of visual and mechanical measurement technologies for hair science. He has authored scientific publications and presented internationally on topics including shine measurement, cyclic combing, fiber mechanics, and inclusive approaches to evaluating diverse hair types and textures.


Presentation on Claims Topic

Ronie Schmelz

Presented by
Ronie Schmelz, B.A. & J.D.

K&L Gates

Abstract

Abstract Coming Soon

Speaker Biography

Ronie Schmelz is a partner in the firm's Commercial Disputes practice group. Ronie is a seasoned litigator who has spent decades representing clients in litigation and now spends much of her time counseling clients on best practices to stay out of litigation. She counsels consumer brand companies, including cosmetic and personal care, food and supplement companies, on litigation-avoidance strategies so they can confidently focus on building and operating their businesses in ways that reduce the risk of regulatory oversight, consumer challenge, and litigation. A prominent member in the cosmetics industry, Ronie serves on the Independent Beauty Association's (IBA) board as vice chair of the executive committee, as well as chair of the IBA's government and public relations committee. She is also on the board of Beauty Industry West (BIW) where she chairs the legal and regulatory committee.