3:30 PM - 5:30 PM | Session E: Evolving Science of Hair & Scalp Health
Engineering Hair Repair: Linking Keratin Binding Specificity to α-Helix Restoration in Human Hair Fibres
Presented by
Guojin Zhang, Ph.D.
Croda, Inc.
Abstract
Peptide-based hair repair technologies offer a promising approach to improving fibre integrity through selective interactions with hair keratin. However, methods that quantify peptide binding specificity and link binding performance to structural repair remain limited. This study combines a modified peptide binding assay with Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) microscopy to evaluate keratin-targeted peptide performance at the molecular level. Keratin-derived sequences representing key regions of hair intermediate filament proteins were immobilized to enable controlled assessment of peptide binding affinity. The assay differentiated peptide candidates by their affinity for defined keratin motifs, identifying sequences with enhanced keratin interaction. FTIR microscopy was then used to assess secondary structural changes in treated human hair fibres. Peptides with stronger keratin binding promoted spectral shifts toward α-helix-rich profiles, with reduced β-sheet signatures associated with damaged hair. These molecular findings were further supported by improved mechanical performance and protein thermal stability, demonstrating a mechanistically validated approach to peptide-based hair repair.
Speaker Biography
Guojin Zhang, Ph.D. is a Lead Technical Specialist in Croda’s Beauty Care Division and a recognized expert in hair science and cosmetic innovation. Her research has advanced the understanding of hair fiber damage and repair, helping translate fundamental science into next-generation hair care technologies and substantiated product claims. With nearly 20 years of industry experience spanning Croda, L’Oréal, Ashland, and Johnson & Johnson, she has authored more than 30 peer-reviewed publications, contributed multiple patented innovations, and received the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ prestigious Joseph P. Ciaudelli Scientific Award twice. She holds a Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry from Rutgers University.
Effect of Dry Shampoo Usage on Scalp Microbiome: A Paired, Real-World Intervention Study
Presented by
Shamish Ganpule
TRI Princeton
Abstract
The scalp microbiome contributes to scalp health, yet little is known about how commonly used hair care products influence microbial communities under real world conditions. This study will evaluate the effect of dry shampoo on scalp microbiome composition using a paired intervention design. Twenty participants (10 male, 10 female) sampled after a standardized 24hour no wash period and again 24 hours after application of a commercially available dry shampoo. Microbiome profiles characterized using 16S rRNA V3–V4 amplicon sequencing, with paired statistical analyses used to assess changes in taxonomic abundance and community diversity. The study will determine whether dry shampoo use is associated with within-subject shifts in key scalp-associated taxa and diversity metrics, while examining inter-individual variability and potential sex related differences. This work will provide a controlled framework for evaluating product-induced changes in scalp microbial ecology and may inform the development of microbiome conscious haircare products under realistic everyday use conditions.
Speaker Biography
Shamish Ganpule is a Principal Research Associate at TRI Princeton with a multidisciplinary background in biochemistry, molecular and cellular biology, genetics, and applied biosciences. His research experience spans hair and scalp science, membrane biology, lipid signaling, microfluidics, and drug discovery, with a particular emphasis on translating fundamental biological insights into practical scientific applications. Before joining TRI, Shamish led R&D at Delta Biosciences, where he worked on high-throughput microfluidic screening platforms for drug discovery using DNA-encoded libraries. He is completing his Ph.D. in Biochemistry at Vilnius University, where his research has explored membrane organization, lipid rafts, and cellular signaling. His previous research collaborations include work with the European Molecular Biology Laboratory on hypercholesterolemia and CRISPR-mediated modulation of PCSK9 expression. His research experience across the United States, Germany, Spain, and Lithuania has shaped a broad, interdisciplinary approach to investigating biological systems and addressing emerging questions in hair, scalp, and personal care science.
Engineering Plants to Produce Biomimetic Growth Factors for Modulating Hair Cycle Dynamics: A Case Study
Presented by
Tony Abboud
Core Biogenesis
Abstract
Haircare is entering a new era where cosmetic performance can be measured not only by how hair looks, but by changes in the underlying biology of the scalp. This presentation explores the development of a novel plant-produced biomimetic FGF-2 fused to a natural Oleosome delivery system, designed to overcome two longstanding limitations of topical growth factors: instability and effective delivery.
The technology was evaluated through protein characterization, in vitro bioactivity testing, ex vivo delivery assessment, and an 84-day randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study involving 40 subjects. Instrumental analysis demonstrated measurable changes in hair-cycle dynamics, including a 14.0% increase in the anagen/telogen ratio and a 33.6% increase in hair density after just 28 days, alongside progressive improvements in hair fiber diameter and scalp condition.
These findings demonstrate the potential for plant biotechnology and biomimetic proteins to move haircare beyond traditional cosmetic claims toward quantifiable modulation of scalp biology, opening a new frontier for performance-driven scalp and haircare innovation.
Speaker Biography
Tony Abboud is Chief Commercial Officer at Core Biogenesis, a French biotechnology company pioneering plant-produced biomimetic proteins for the cosmetic industry. He holds a Master of Biomedical Technology from the University of Calgary and has spent more than 20 years commercializing biotechnology innovations across skincare, haircare, and medical aesthetics. Tony is a recognized international speaker, presenting at major industry events including in-cosmetics Global, NYSCC Suppliers' Day, SCC Annual Meeting, and in-cosmetics Korea. His work focuses on translating cutting-edge science into commercially successful beauty innovations, with particular expertise in biomimetic proteins, growth factors, longevity science, and biotechnology-driven skincare. At Core Biogenesis, he leads global commercial strategy and partnerships, helping beauty brands develop the next generation of clinically validated, biologically inspired cosmetic products.
The Science of Scalp Longevity: From Biological Aging to Cosmetic Innovation
Presented by
Dorian White
Dorian Marie LLC
Abstract
Scalp aging is a multifactorial process involving biological changes in the skin, hair follicle, sebaceous glands, extracellular matrix, immune environment, and pigmentary system. Age-associated extracellular-matrix remodeling, alterations in the hair-follicle stem-cell niche, oxidative stress, cellular senescence, inflammaging, and changes in sebum production and scalp biophysical properties may collectively influence the follicular environment and contribute to changes in hair density, fiber diameter, strength, and pigmentation. Scalp longevity reframes traditional “anti-aging” approaches toward maintaining scalp function, structural support, follicular activity, and hair quality over time. As consumer and industry interest in longevity expands, emerging cosmetic technologies increasingly target biological pathways associated with scalp aging. Understanding the evidence supporting these approaches, and distinguishing demonstrated cosmetic benefits from biological plausibility, provides an important foundation for the development and evaluation of the next generation of scalp-care technologies.
Speaker Biography
Dorian White is a Certified Clinical Trichologist, Haircare Science Instructor, and Lead Trichologist and Consulting Expert specializing in evidence-based scalp health, hair biology, and haircare science. With more than eight years of experience in scientific research across laboratory, field, and applied research environments, she brings a rigorous scientific foundation to the hair and cosmetic science industries. Dorian is the Founder and Instructor of the Scalp Health and Haircare Education Certification Program™, where she translates research in hair biology, scalp health, cosmetic ingredients, and product science into practical professional education. She also consults with haircare brands on formulation and product development, research interpretation, professional education, and science communication. She holds a B.S. from the University of Washington and is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, American Hair Research Society, and Association of Professional Trichologists. Her work focuses on bridging scientific research, cosmetic science, and real-world hair and scalp applications.
The Scalp Barrier: Function, Dysfunction, and
Implications for Hair Care
Presented by
K.P. Ananth (Ananthapadmanabhan)
University of Cincinnati
Abstract
Although hair research has traditionally focused on hair properties, fiber damage, hair loss, and hair growth, the role of the scalp barrier in maintaining scalp and hair health has received comparatively little attention. This is changing with the growing trend of “skinification” of the scalp, which applies principles and technologies from skincare to promote scalp health.
This presentation will compare the properties and functions of the scalp barrier with those of the skin stratum corneum barrier, focusing on their roles in physical, microbiological, immunological, and UV protection. The consequences of barrier dysfunction in common scalp conditions, including dryness, scalp sensitivity, and dandruff, will be examined. Finally, approaches to scalp and hair care that target barrier integrity and function will be discussed, highlighting opportunities to apply established skincare science to develop products that promote a healthy scalp and, in turn, healthy hair.
Speaker Biography
K. P. Ananth (Ananthapadmanabhan) is Professor and Director of the Cosmetic Science Programs at the James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati. He earned his B.Tech. from IIT Bombay and his M.S. and Doctor of Engineering Science degrees from Columbia University, followed by three years of postdoctoral research.
After beginning his career at Union Carbide, he joined Unilever Research & Development in 1990, where he spent over 26 years in scientific and leadership roles in personal care research, including leading long-term skin cleansing research programs. He joined the University of Cincinnati as a full-time faculty in 2016.
His research interests include surfactant interactions with polymers and proteins, skin barrier function, mildness, moisturization, formulation science, and dermal delivery. He has authored or co-authored over 140 scientific publications and holds more than 35 patents. His honors include Unilever’s Lifetime Achievement Award and the University of Cincinnati Faculty Excellence Award.