3:30 PM - 5:30 PM | Session D: Biotechnology Tools Transforming Cosmetics

Sponsored by Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association

Transforming Cosmetics Through AI- and Synthetic Biology–Enabled Precision Fermentation of Bio-Based Ingredients

Prof. Dr. Jixun Zhan

Presented by
Prof. Dr. Jixun Zhan

Viablife Biotech

Abstract

The cosmetics industry is increasingly seeking sustainable alternatives to conventionally manufactured ingredients while maintaining product quality, performance, and regulatory compliance. Advances in artificial intelligence, synthetic biology, and precision fermentation are creating new opportunities to redesign ingredient production using renewable resources. In this work, we demonstrate the power of this approach through the development of a fully bio-based production platform for niacinamide, one of the most widely used cosmetic active ingredients. AI-guided enzyme and pathway design enabled the creation of a novel biosynthetic route, including engineered enzymes not found in nature, which was integrated into a microbial production host. Through iterative metabolic engineering and fermentation optimization, the process was scaled to industrial manufacture using plant-derived feedstocks. The resulting niacinamide was certified as 100% bio-based by the USDA. This case study illustrates how AI-enabled synthetic biology can transform cosmetic ingredient manufacturing by enabling sustainable, scalable, and traceable production of high-value ingredients.

Speaker Biography

Dr. Jixun Zhan is Professor and Department Head of Biological and Chemical Engineering at Utah State University. He is also the Founder and Chair of the Board of Viablife Biotech. His research focuses on synthetic biology and natural product biosynthesis, aiming to develop microbial cell factories for the sustainable and cost-effective production of high-value bioproducts, including cosmetic ingredients. His work has led to 14 patents, 6 book chapters, and 129 articles in leading journals, including Nature Communications, Biotechnology Advances, PNAS, Metabolic Engineering, and Journal of the American Chemical Society. Dr. Zhan currently serves as Immediate Past President of the Institute of Biological Engineering and as an editor for several prominent journals, including Journal of Biological Engineering and Chemical Engineering Journal. Among his representative honors are the American Heart Association National Scientist Development Grant Award, the Department of Defense Concept Award, and the 2024 IFSCC Top 10 Basic Research Paper Award.


siRNA-Guided Target Validation and Proteomic Profiling for Mechanistic Assessment of Cosmetic Actives

Huifang Li

Presented by
Huifang Li, Ph.D.

University of Rhode Island

Abstract

Biotechnology is enabling increasingly precise approaches to cosmetic ingredient discovery and evaluation. This presentation introduces an integrated platform that combines siRNA-mediated gene silencing, quantitative proteomics, and AI-assisted analysis to investigate the mechanisms of action of anti-aging cosmetic actives. Using human dermal fibroblast senescence models, candidate genes associated with extracellular matrix regulation, oxidative stress, and inflammatory signaling are prioritized for functional evaluation. siRNA-mediated perturbation is then used to determine whether selected targets are required for the biological responses induced by cosmetic actives. Quantitative proteomic profiling can subsequently characterize system-level changes following gene silencing and compound treatment, while pathway and network analyses connect molecular perturbations with cellular phenotypes. This integrative approach links molecular target modulation to functional biological outcomes.

The presentation will demonstrate how this biotechnology-enabled framework can move cosmetic-active evaluation beyond descriptive biomarker measurements toward testable mechanistic hypotheses, supporting the development of mechanism-informed skincare ingredients and highlighting the growing role of functional proteomics in cosmetic science innovation.

Speaker Biography

Huifang Li, Ph.D., is a Postdoctoral Fellow at the University of Rhode Island College of Pharmacy. Her research focuses on evaluating natural and cosmetic actives for skin health, with particular emphasis on inflammation, oxidative stress, ferroptosis, extracellular matrix protection, and mechanisms of action. She has extensive experience in cell-based efficacy screening, LC–MS/MS proteomics, analytical chemistry, and molecular target validation. Her work integrates phenotypic assays, proteomic profiling, and targeted molecular approaches to identify bioactive compounds and determine the pathways underlying their effects. At SCC80, Dr. Li will discuss how proteomic profiling and siRNA-based target validation can be integrated to strengthen the mechanistic assessment of cosmetic actives. She is particularly interested in translating advanced research tools into practical strategies for cosmetic ingredient evaluation and product development, bridging academic discovery with innovation in the personal care industry.


Microbiome-Activated Recombinant Collagens: A Programmable Discovery Platform for Scenario-Directed Bioactive Peptides

Junxiang Li

Presented by
Dr. Junxiang Li

AGECODE / Tsinghua University

Abstract

How can large collagen molecules deliver biological signals when skin penetration remains a central concern? We investigate a microbiome-mediated activation hypothesis: skin commensals process collagen into short signaling peptides. Our model is recombinant human type XXI collagen, a distinctive endogenous collagen with stemness-promoting activity in mesenchymal stem cell assays. This makes it a biologically informative reservoir of natural signaling sequences. Incubation with Staphylococcus epidermidis, followed by peptidomics and functional screening, identified collagen-derived peptides with differentiated activities in cellular and explant models. Lead peptides enhanced collagen synthesis, supported stemness-associated cellular programs and extracellular matrix markers, or attenuated signaling between stressed keratinocytes and melanocytes. These findings support microbial proteolysis as a mechanistic route for unlocking collagen bioactivity, without assuming penetration of the intact protein. Harnessing this pathway enables discovery of sequence-defined collagen signaling peptides tailored to specific functions, connecting the biology of a distinctive collagen with microbiome-inspired activation and targeted cosmetic innovation.

Speaker Biography

Dr. Junxiang Li is Deputy Director of the AGECODE R&D Center at the Yangtze Delta Region Institute of Tsinghua University. He earned his Ph.D. from the School of Life Sciences at Tsinghua University in 2017 and completed postdoctoral training there. His research background spans bioinformatics, tissue engineering, and regenerative medicine. Since 2018, he has focused on discovering, developing, and applying active ingredients for efficacy-driven skincare, using AI-enabled computational biology to advance ingredient innovation. Dr. Li has extensive experience in the development and translation of innovative protein, peptide, and other bioactive ingredients. He has published nearly 20 SCI-indexed papers and holds nearly 20 granted invention patents. He is a member of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC).


Precision Indoor Farming for High-Performance Cosmetic Actives: Insights from Perilla frutescens

Estelle Loing (Næmos)

Presented by
Dr. Estelle Loing

Næmos

Abstract

Discover how Precision Indoor Farming is opening new pathways for next-generation cosmetic biotechnology. This presentation explores an innovative approach combining controlled indoor cultivation, targeted plant elicitation, and green extraction to unlock the potential of Perilla frutescens (Red Shiso) microgreens as a high-performance cosmetic active. By precisely controlling cultivation conditions, we enhanced the production of key phenolic compounds while achieving substantially higher biomass yields than conventional farming. Immediate processing of fresh biomass through solvent-free, microwave-assisted aqueous extraction helped preserve its bioactive potential. Going beyond conventional antioxidant and UV-protection claims, the resulting extract introduces a holistic approach to skin ageing through a Skinome concept. Across experimental models, it supported multiple interconnected layers of skin health, including barrier function, lipidome, genome, proteome, and microbiome, while delivering visible improvements in wrinkles, sunspots, skin tone, and radiance. This work demonstrates how precision biotechnology can create traceable, climate-resilient and multifunctional cosmetic actives for a new generation of holistic anti-ageing solutions.

Speaker Biography

With a strong background in cellular biology, Dr. Estelle Loing has established herself as a leader in the development of novel ingredients and technologies. She holds a Ph.D in cellular biology from Pasteur Institute and Tübingen University. Throughout her career, she has worked for major companies, including Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, where she served as Global R&D Director in Canada from 2008 to 2020, and then IFF, where she held the position of Global Scent Technology & Innovation Director in New York from 2020 to 2024. In 2024, she joined Næmos as CEO, a company specializing in sustainable active ingredients developed from indoor farming technology. Dr. Loing has published over 30 scientific papers and several patents and has made significant contributions to the development and commercialization of numerous active and functional cosmetic ingredients. Her work has driven innovation and excellence in the field, and she continues to be a leader in industry.