9:30 AM - 11:00 AM | Session C: Photoprotection Innovation in a Dynamic Landscape
Sponsored by Advanced Science Laboratories
Zinc Oxide Tetrapods as UV Filters that Improve White Cast in Mineral Sunscreen Formulations
Presented by
Dr. AJ Addae
University of California Los Angeles
Abstract
Because ZnO sunscreens are complex emulsion suspensions, they face significant limitations, such as reduced cosmetic elegance, and challenged absorption efficiency. Additionally, ZnO sunscreens are commonly associated with white cast on the skin. We discuss the synthesis and optical properties of flame-synthesized zinc oxide tetrapods as a UV filter for sunscreen formulations, which improve white cast and emulsion stability. This talk first details the challenges of metal oxide UV filters in sunscreens and their impacts on sunscreen emulsion and photostability. Next, this investigation demonstrates how ZnO tetrapods improve sunscreens’ cosmetic elegance and photoprotective properties in comparison to other common ZnO morphologies. Through this work, we introduce a new framework for assessing the white cast of sunscreen emulsions for consumer use. Finally, we discuss the impact of ZnO tetrapods on the skin microbiome when evaluated in a clinical study.
Speaker Biography
Dr. AJ Addae is a cosmetic chemist, clinical researcher, and product developer. She earned a B.S. in Biology from Northeastern University, and a M.S. and PhD in chemistry from UCLA. Her academic research examines analytical methods for evaluating sunscreen performance and white cast, alongside the effects of sunscreen use on the skin microbiome. Alongside this, Dr. Addae is the founder of award-winning cosmetic product development laboratory SULA LABS, an adjunct professor of cosmetic science at Nova Southeastern University’s pharmacy graduate program, and she currently serves as the Global Head of R&D at Murad. Her work has earned scientific awards from platforms like BeautyMatter and CEW, and she was named a top 30 product developer by Beauty Independent in 2024. Ultimately, her broader research interests center on understanding how cosmetic formulation influences interactions with the skin and hair, with an emphasis on introducing more inclusive approaches to the field.
The Future of U.S. OTC Sunscreens After BEMOTRIZINOL: Leveraging New Alternative Approaches, Real‑World Evidence, and Weight‑of‑Evidence Frameworks to Catalyze FDA Innovation
Presented by
Carl D'Ruiz, MPH
dsm-firmenich
Abstract
The FDA’s recent bemotrizinol decision represents more than the introduction of a new UV filter. It signals a broader modernization of sunscreen evaluation through the integration of New Approach Methodologies (NAMs), real-world evidence (RWE), and structured weight-of-evidence (WoE) frameworks. Using bemotrizinol as a case study, this presentation examines how physiologically based pharmacokinetic modeling, in silico toxicology, mechanistic assays, dermal absorption data, and decades of global experience can be combined to characterize safety, exposure, and biological relevance with greater scientific precision. Beyond enabling bemotrizinol, the OMOR pathway establishes a blueprint for evaluating future UV filters, novel dosage forms, internationally recognized ISO efficacy methodologies, and next-generation sunscreen claims using integrated evidence streams. This emerging framework can accelerate formulation innovation, strengthen claims substantiation, support global scientific harmonization, and expand access to advanced photoprotective technologies, creating a modern, evidence-driven pathway for sunscreen innovation that extends far beyond a single active ingredient.
Speaker Biography
Carl D’Ruiz is a recognized leader in sunscreen photoprotection, cosmetic innovation, and OTC regulatory science, with more than 30 years of experience advancing science-based solutions that improve consumer health, safety, and product performance. At dsm-firmenich and as former Chair of the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) Sunscreen Consortium, he has helped shape industry regulatory and scientific strategy. Carl led the first FDA Tier 1 OMOR and GRASE approval of a new sunscreen active ingredient in more than 25 years—PARSOL® Shield (BEMT)—a milestone that expanded opportunities for next-generation UV protection technologies in the United States. A strong advocate for modern toxicology, non-animal testing, and risk-based safety assessment, he serves on the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Scientific Affairs Committee, is a board member of the Photodermatology Society, and is a member of the Society of Toxicology and the American Academy of Dermatology.
Sodium Surfactin as a Multifunctional Biosurfactant to Improve the Dispersion, SPF, and Sensory Performance of Micron-Sized Mineral Sunscreens
Presented by
Dr Xin Sun
Bloomage Biotech. Co. Ltd
Abstract
Micron-sized titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) offer broad-spectrum UV protection and a favorable safety profile in sunscreens, yet their performance is limited by particle aggregation, rapid sedimentation, white cast, and unsatisfactory skin-feel that reduce both efficacy and consumer acceptance. This study evaluates sodium surfactin, an eco-friendly biosurfactant, for enhancing micron-sized physical UV filters. Addition of 1 % surfactin completely prevented visible sedimentation of 10 % ZnO suspensions for more than 24 hours. Particle-size analysis showed reductions of 90 % for TiO₂ and 99 % for ZnO in aqueous suspensions. Surfactin-containing sunscreen formulations produced SPF increases of 12 % (TiO₂-based) and 25 % (ZnO-based). Sensory assessments confirmed lighter texture, improved spreadability, reduced stickiness, and minimal white cast. These findings address key formulation challenges of micron-sized physical sunscreens and establish a scientific foundation for high-performance, stable, and user-friendly mineral sunscreen products.
Speaker Biography
Dr. Xin Sun is Director of the Institute of Life Science Materials Application at Bloomage Biotechnology. He earned a Ph.D. in Inorganic Chemistry from the University of Oxford, UK, and both an M.Eng. and a B.Sc. in Applied Chemistry from Peking University, China. A seasoned expert in bioactive ingredients, Dr. Sun previously served as an R&D Manager at Procter & Gamble. His research focuses on the applications and mechanisms of bioactive materials, including hyaluronic acid, ergothioneine, and sialic acid, across skincare, nutrition, oral care, hair care, medical aesthetics, and ophthalmic and orthopedic medical devices. He also drives innovation in biomanufacturing and the translation of cross-disciplinary technologies. Dr. Sun has filed more than 30 patents and published over 30 papers in journals such as ACS Omega, Food & Function, and Dalton Transactions. He is also a frequent keynote speaker at international conferences.
The Integral Role of Inorganic Oxides in Photoprotection and Color Cosmetics
Presented by
Brian Bodnar
L’Oréal USA
Abstract
Mineral pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sit at the critical intersection of formulation science for both color cosmetics and photoprotection. While traditionally treated separately in both categories, sun care and makeup share fundamental challenges when utilizing these inorganic oxides. This seminar explores the diverse applications of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide across both domains, connecting chemistry, structure, morphology, and optical performance. Attendees will gain insight into how particle size dictates attenuation across UV, visible, and IR radiation, and examine key processing considerations required to optimize performance in both high-SPF sunscreens and high-payoff color cosmetics.
Speaker Biography
Brian Bodnar is a Principal Scientist leading the Photoprotection Application Domain at L’Oréal USA. Since joining the company in 2011, he has spent the last nine years leading the team toward advancing the fundamental science of sun care and driving cutting-edge sunscreen innovations for the US and global markets. Brian’s diverse expertise spans liquid foundation formulation, designing customized automated chemistry solutions at Chemspeed Technologies, and developing novel materials at SiGNa Chemistry. He holds a BS from The College of New Jersey and earned his PhD in Organic Chemistry from the University of Notre Dame, where his doctoral research focused on the synthesis of mycobactin analogs and nitrosocarbonyl hetero Diels-Alder chemistry.