Presented by Ms. AJ Addae

SULA LABS

Abstract

Zinc Oxide Tetrapods as UV Filters that Improve White Cast in Mineral Sunscreen Formulations Because ZnO sunscreens are complex emulsion suspensions, they face significant limitations, such as reduced cosmetic elegance, and challenged absorption efficiency. Additionally, ZnO sunscreens are commonly associated with white cast on the skin. We discuss the synthesis and optical properties of flame-synthesized zinc oxide tetrapods as a UV filter for sunscreen formulations, which improve white cast and emulsion stability. This talk first details the challenges of metal oxide UV filters in sunscreens and their impacts on sunscreen emulsion and photostability. Next, this investigation demonstrates how ZnO tetrapods improve sunscreens’ cosmetic elegance and photoprotective properties in comparison to other common ZnO morphologies. Through this work, we introduce a new framework for assessing the white cast of sunscreen emulsions for consumer use. Finally, we discuss the impact of ZnO tetrapods on the skin microbiome when evaluated in a clinical study.

Presented by Carl D'Ruiz, MPH

dsm-firmenich

Abstract

The FDA’s recent bemotrizinol decision represents more than the introduction of a new UV filter. It signals a broader modernization of sunscreen evaluation through the integration of New Approach Methodologies (NAMs), real-world evidence (RWE), and structured weight-of-evidence (WoE) frameworks. Using bemotrizinol as a case study, this presentation examines how physiologically based pharmacokinetic modeling, in silico toxicology, mechanistic assays, dermal absorption data, and decades of global experience can be combined to characterize safety, exposure, and biological relevance with greater scientific precision. Beyond enabling bemotrizinol, the OMOR pathway establishes a blueprint for evaluating future UV filters, novel dosage forms, internationally recognized ISO efficacy methodologies, and next-generation sunscreen claims using integrated evidence streams. This emerging framework can accelerate formulation innovation, strengthen claims substantiation, support global scientific harmonization, and expand access to advanced photoprotective technologies, creating a modern, evidence-driven pathway for sunscreen innovation that extends far beyond a single active ingredient.

Presented by Dr Xin Sun

Bloomage Biotech. Co. Ltd

Abstract

icron-sized titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) offer broad-spectrum UV protection and a favorable safety profile in sunscreens, yet their performance is limited by particle aggregation, rapid sedimentation, white cast, and unsatisfactory skin-feel that reduce both efficacy and consumer acceptance. This study evaluates sodium surfactin, an eco-friendly biosurfactant, for enhancing micron-sized physical UV filters. Addition of 1 % surfactin completely prevented visible sedimentation of 10 % ZnO suspensions for more than 24 hours. Particle-size analysis showed reductions of 90 % for TiO₂ and 99 % for ZnO in aqueous suspensions. Surfactin-containing sunscreen formulations produced SPF increases of 12 % (TiO₂-based) and 25 % (ZnO-based). Sensory assessments confirmed lighter texture, improved spreadability, reduced stickiness, and minimal white cast. These findings address key formulation challenges of micron-sized physical sunscreens and establish a scientific foundation for high-performance, stable, and user-friendly mineral sunscreen products.

Presented by Brian Bodnar

L’Oréal USA

Abstract

Mineral pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sit at the critical intersection of formulation science for both color cosmetics and photoprotection. While traditionally treated separately in both categories, sun care and makeup share fundamental challenges when utilizing these inorganic oxides. This seminar explores the diverse applications of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide across both domains, connecting chemistry, structure, morphology, and optical performance. Attendees will gain insight into how particle size dictates attenuation across UV, visible, and IR radiation, and examine key processing considerations required to optimize performance in both high-SPF sunscreens and high-payoff color cosmetics.