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9:30 AM - 11:00 AM | Session B: Perception by Design: Color, Fragrance, Texture, & Neurocosmetics

Applied to Skin, Measured in the Mind: EEG-Validated Neuromodulatory Effects of Cosmetic Actives

Morgan Drohan

Presented by Morgan Drohan

Active Concepts, LLC

Abstract

Can a cosmetic applied to the skin measurably influence the mind? As beauty evolves beyond visible outcomes toward emotional well-being, the controversial skin-mind connection demands objective validation. This study investigated whether topical cosmetic actives can measurably modulate brain activity and mood using electroencephalography (EEG). Twenty healthy volunteers received controlled topical applications of bioactives compared with a base lotion. An adaptogenic mushroom-derived active significantly increased beta brainwave activity by 1.6% versus baseline (p=0.035), supporting cognitive engagement, while a fermented matcha-derived active increased alpha activity by 50% (p=0.026), supporting relaxation. Significant improvements in pleasant mood perception were also observed at 24 hours and one week, aligning perceived mid-term emotional benefits with predicative immediate EEG responses. These findings challenge the conventional boundaries of cosmetic efficacy, demonstrating measurable communication between topical application and mind-state modulation while positioning EEG as a powerful tool for substantiating the emerging frontier of psychodermatology.

Speaker Biography

As a Technical Marketing Specialist at Active Concepts, I bridge the gap between scientific innovation and commercial strategy. Leveraging a background in chemistry, I translate complex scientific research into compelling technical marketing and go-to-market strategies that resonate with customers worldwide. Working cross-functionally with R&D, Regulatory, Sales, and Product Development Teams, I help shape ingredient positioning, develop efficacy-driven marketing assets, identify emerging marketing trends, and support global product launches. My role also includes designing scientific communication strategies, interpreting efficacy data, and delivering technical education that enables customers to confidently commercialize next-generation cosmetic technologies. Through this work, I strive to transform scientific innovation into differentiated solutions that address evolving needs across the global personal care industry.



Texture Decoded: How Emulsifiers and Emollients Shape Sensory Experience

Dr. Gabriella Baki

Presented by Dr. Gabriella Baki

University of Toledo

Abstract

The sensory performance of cosmetic emulsions arises from interactions between emulsifiers and emollients. Across a series of studies, our group investigated how formulation variables shape sensory and rheo-textural behavior using consumer-based Check-All-That-Apply (CATA) methods and instrumental measurements. Initial work demonstrated that CATA is an efficient tool for detecting meaningful sensory differences with untrained panelists. Emulsifier-driven studies showed that emulsifiers establish the foundational sensory profile of emulsions, driving differentiation during pick-up, rub-out, and immediate skin feel, while emollients primarily influence appearance and afterfeel. Instrumental rheology and texture analysis confirmed strong relationships between physical properties and consumer perception. Subsequent research focused on emollient cascades, using a systematically designed 32-emulsion matrix that varied emollient load, ratio, cascade, and emulsifier load. Emollient composition, particularly cascades combining fast-, medium- and slow-spreading materials, played a dominant role in differentiating rheo-textural outcomes. Multivariable modeling further proved that emollient-phase variation could explain more response variability than emulsifier load.

Speaker Biography

Gabriella Baki is a professor at the College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences at the University of Toledo, where she directs the undergraduate cosmetic science and formulation design program. She teaches in both the in-person undergraduate and online master’s programs in cosmetic science. Her research lab focuses on topical active delivery, sensory evaluation, and sun-protectionboosting technologies. Dr. Baki is also an active public speaker and author; she has delivered more than 50 technical presentations, published over 60 papers, and is the author of Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology, whose second edition was published by John Wiley & Sons in January 2023. Dr. Baki is deeply engaged in the cosmetic science community at the regional, national, and international levels. She currently serves as the Science Chair for the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC).



The State of Complexion 2026: A Category-Wide Audit of Foundation and Concealer Shade Coverage

Alex Flohr

Presented by Alex Flohr

Chromallogy

Abstract

Abstract Coming Soon

Speaker Biography

Alex Flohr is the founder and CEO of Chromallogy. An engineer and industrial designer by training, she spent a decade advising Fortune 500 companies on innovation strategy, creating new products and net new categories grounded in consumer insight. She thinks in systems, not symptoms. She built Chromallogy to bring that same discipline to beauty, turning a deep understanding of who the consumer actually is into the scientific standard for complexion development the industry has never had. Through Chromallogy, Alex is building the scientific standard for how brands