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A Comparison of Physicochemical Properties of an Emulsion Containing Chemically Interesterified Fat for Demanding Skin with Commercial Formulations for Atopic Skin

Journal of Cosmetic Science | Vol. 69 No. 6
Authored by Małgorzata Kowalska, Magdalena Woźniak, Sławomir Janas and Diana Mróz

Synopsis

The aim of the work was to evaluate and analyze the functional properties of a new emulsion product made according to our recipe containing interesterified fat with the properties of selected popular preparations used in the care of atopic skin. Also, the composition of all tested preparations was analyzed for active substances contained in these preparations. Skin hydration level and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after application of commercial formulations as well as of our own preparation on the basis of interesterified fat were assessed. Determination of droplets’ size and their distribution was performed for our own preparation using dynamic laser diffraction technique. Stability of the prepared emulsion in different storage conditions was evaluated by the Turbiscan test. The highest average skin hydration increase was observed after the application of cream C5, which contained a unique component—evening primrose oil. The highest decrease in TEWL was obtained after the application of our own formulation. Sensory analysis showed that the highest scores were obtained for creams. Respondents evaluated our own preparation as not fully satisfying. The obtained results showed the possibility of producing an emulsion with interesterified fat application as a formulation for atopic skin care. Its physical characteristics showed stability of the dispersion. However, parameters such as color, smoothing, cushion effect, and absorption should be improved.

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