J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 1-9 (January/February 2007)
Equilibrium water sorption characteristics of
the human nail
HEMALI B. GUNT and GERALD B. KASTING, College of Pharmacy,
The University of Cincinnati, P.O. Box 67004, Cincinnati, OH
45267-0004.
Accepted for publication September 28, 2006. Presented
in part at the Annual Scientific Meeting of the Society of Cosmetic
Chemists, New York, December 2005.
Synopsis
The physical and transport properties of keratinized tissues
are closely related to their water content. This report presents
water uptake and desorption isotherms for the human nail and
compares them with those of wool, horn, hair, and stratum corneum.
Nail absorbed a maximum of ~0.3gH2O/g dry tissue, with the shape
and magnitude of the isotherm most closely resembling horn.
Hysteresis between uptake and desorption was observed, similar
to that of other keratins. The shape of the isotherms was adequately
described by both the D'Arcy-Watt and Guggenheim-Anderson-deBoer
(GAB) models; however, small positive deviations from both models
were found in the relative humidity range, 30-60%. Directionally
better fits to the data were found with the D'Arcy-Watt model.
This analysis suggests that most of the water in the tissue
was in a strongly bound state, consistent with observations
made by other techniques.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 11-17 (January/February 2007)
Structural analysis of the cell membrane complex
in the human hair cuticle using microbeam X-ray diffraction:
Relationship with the effects of hair dyeing
TAKAFUMI INOUE, YOSHIMICHI IWAMOTO, NOBORU OHTA, KATUAKI INOUE,
and NAOTO YAGI,
Basic Research Laboratory, Kanebo Cosmetics, Inc., 5-3-28 Kotobuki-cho,
Odawara, 250-0002, Japan (T.I.), Beauty Care Laboratory, Kanebo
Home Products Ltd., 134 Goudo-cho, Hododaya-ku, Yokohama, 240-0005,
Japan (Y.I.), Japan Synchrotron Radiation Research Institute
(JASRI/SPring-8), Hyogo, 679-5198, Japan (N.O., K.I., N.Y.)
Accepted for publication September 20, 2006.
Synopsis
This article deals with
the structure of the cell membrane complex (CMC) in the human
hair cuticle. The microbeam X-ray
provided a pattern of small-angle scattering from the CMC in
the cuticle with no sample preparations, including slicing and
pre-staining of hair. The thickness of the β-and δ-layers, substructure
in CMC, was estimated by analysis of
the scattering pattern. We used hair samples extracted with
several solvents, and found that solvent extraction changed
the thickness of the β-and δ-layers in a manner
dependent on the type of solvent. Extraction of hair with solvent
was also shown to have effects on the extent of dyeing. There
was a high correlation between the extent of dyeing and the
thickness of the δ-layer, i.e., a thin layer tended to show a high amount
of dyeing, whereas there was no significant correlation between
the thickness of the β-layer and the extent
of dyeing.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 19-33 (January/February 2007)
Inhibitory effects of natural plants of Jeju
Island on elastase and MMP-1 expression
YOUNG HEUI KIM, KI SOO KIM, CHANG SUNG HAN, HONG CHUL YANG,
SUN HEE PARK, KANG II KO, SOO HEE LEE, KI HO KIM, NAM HO LEE,
JUNG MI KIM, and KYUNG-HUN SON, R&D Center, Bioland Ltd., Byongchon,
Chonan, Chungnam, 330-860 (Y.H.K., K.S.K., C.S.H., H.C.Y., S.H.P.,
K.I.K., S.H.L., K.H.K.), Department of Chemistry, College of
Natural Science, Cheju National University, Ara 1-Dong, Jeju,
690-756 (N.H.L., J.M.K.), and Department of Pharmacology, College
of Pharmacy, Kangwon National University, Chunchon, Kangwon
200-701 (K.-H.S.), Republic of Korea.
Accepted for publication September 28, 2006.
Synopsis
In order to search for new active cosmetic ingredients
of natural origin, we screened about 60 plants collected from
Jeju Island,
which is located in the southernmost part of the Republic of Korea.
We investigated their free radical scavenging activity, elastase
inhibition activity, and reduction of MMP-1 mRNA expression
for the development of anti-aging ingredients as raw materials
for use in cosmetics. In the free radical scavenging capacity
assay, 12 extracts, including Typha orientalis (seed)
and Torreya nucifera (leaf),
showed significant free radical scavenging activity (up to SC50
<
30 µg/ml). Among these extracts, Nymphaea tetragona (rhizome)
extract showed the highest free radical scavenging activity
(SC50
=
4.7 µg/ml). In the anti-elastase inhibition
assay, seven extracts, including Typha orientalis (seed)
and Persicaria hydropiper (whole
plant), showed high inhibitory activity (>50% at 100 µg/ml).
Among these extracts, Persicaria hydropiper (whole
plant) extract showed the highest elastase
inhibition activity (IC50 = 46.7 µg/ml). In the MMP-1 expression assay using RT-PCR, Typha orientalis (seed),
Pyrrosia hastata (root),
and Capsicum
annum (whole
plant) showed slightly lower inhibition activity than EGCG,
which was used as a control. Furthermore, four extracts, including
Persicaria hydropiper (whole
plant), Filipendula glaberrima (root),
Nymphaea tetragona (root),
and Camellia
japonica (leaf),
completely inhibited the expression of MMP-1 in human fibroblast
cells. The results showed that four of the 60 plant extracts
may hold potential for use as natural active ingredients for
anti-aging cosmetics.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 35-44 (January/February 2007)
High-performance liquid chromatographic determination
of arbutin in skin-whitening creams and medicinal plant extracts
WISANU THONGCHAI, BOONSOM LIAWRUANGRATH, and SAISUNEE LIAWRUANGRATH,
Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy (W.T.,
B.L.), and Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Science (S.L.),
Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai, 50200, Thailand.
Accepted for publication November 1, 2006.
Synopsis
A high-performance
liquid chromatographic method was developed for quantitative
analysis of arbutin. The arbutin was separated
on an ODS Hypersil® C18
column
with a mobile phase of water:methanol:0.1
M hydrochloric acid (89:10:1, v/v/v). The level of arbutin
was measured by means of UV detection at 222 nm. The optimum
conditions for arbutin quantitative analysis were investigated. The calibration
curve was found to be linear up to 1,000 µg/ml−1
of arbutin concentration, and the working
calibration curve for arbutin determination
over the range 0.5–30.0 µg/ml−1 of
arbutin (r2
=
0.9999) was established. The relative standard deviations for
intraday and interday were found to be 0.98% and 1.15%, respectively. A
detection limit (3σ) and quantitation
limit (10σ) of 0.02 µg/ml−1 and
0.2 µg/ml−1, respectively, and a mean percentage
recovery of the spiked arbutin of
99.88 ± 1.12% were obtained. The proposed method has been applied
to the determination of arbutin in commercial skin-whitening creams (Arbuwhite® cream, Super Whitening® cream, and Shiseido® cream) with average contents of 7.60, 5.30, and 57.90 mg/g−1,
respectively. It was also applied to the determination of arbutin
in medicinal plant extracts from Betula alnoides Buch. Ham., Clerodendrum petasites S. Moore, Curculigo latifolia Dryand. Var. latifolia, and Hesperethusa crenulata (Roxb.) Roem, levels of which were
found to be 3.50, 1.50, 1.10, and 0.12 µg/g−1,
respectively (no article reported in the literature about arbutin
analysis). The proposed HPLC method is rapid, simple, and selective
for routine analysis.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 45-51 (January/February 2007)
Clay facial masks: Physicochemical stability
at different storage temperatures
VIVIAN ZAGUE, DIEGO de ALMEIDA SILVA, ANDRÉ ROLIM BABY, TELMA
MARY KANEKO, and MARIA VALÉRIA ROBLES VELASCO, Department of
Pharmacy, School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Săo
Paulo, 580 Prof. Lineu Prestes Av., Bl-13, 05508-900, Cidade
Universitária, Săo Paulo, SP, Brazil
Accepted for publication September 20, 2006.
Synopsis
Clay facial masks—formulations that contain a high
percentage of solids dispersed in a liquid vehicle—have become
of special interest due to specific properties presented by
clays, such as particle size, cooling index, high adsorption
capacity, and plasticity. Although most of the physicochemical
properties of clay dispersions have been studied, specific aspects
concerning the physicochemical stability of clay mask products
remain unclear. This work aimed at investigating the accelerated
physicochemical stability of clay mask formulations stored
at different temperatures. Formulations were subjected to centrifuge
testing and to thermal treatment for 15 days, during which temperature
was varied from −5.0° to 45.0°C. The apparent viscosity
and visual aspect (homogeneity) of all formulations were affected
by temperature variation, whereas color, odor, and pH value
remained unaltered. These results, besides the estimation of
physicochemical stability under aging, can be useful in determining
the best storage conditions for clay-based formulations.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 53-54 (January/February 2007)
Book Review
J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 55-57 (January/February 2007)
Abstracts
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 40,
No. 4, 2006*
J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 59-63 (January/February 2007)
Abstracts
International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 28, No. 3, 2006*
J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 65-67 (January/February 2007)
Abstracts
IFSCC Magazine Vol. 9, No. 4, 2006*
J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 69-70 (January/February 2007)
Abstracts
Journal of the Polish Society of Cosmetic Science "Wiadomoscí
PTK" Vol. 9, No. 3, 2006*
J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 71-98 (January/February 2007)
Papers Presented at the 2006 Annual Scientific Meeting and
Technology Showcase (Thursday's Program)
December 7-8, 2006 New York Hilton New York, NY
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