J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 233-243 (May/June 2006)
Hair breakage during combing. I. Pathways of
breakage
CLARENCE ROBBINS, 12425 Lake Ridge Circle, Clermont, FL 34711.
Accepted for publication January 4, 2006.
Synopsis
Hair breakage during combing was evaluated by combing tresses
and examining photographs of snags of hair fibers in combs.
The resultant hair fiber arrangements suggest that breakage
likely involves hair-on-hair interactions, and broken fragment
size suggests that breakage occurs primarily at or near the
hair-comb interface. Compression forces during combing were
also measured, and impact loading of a hair fiber over another
hair versus a hair fiber over a comb tooth shows that compression
and abrasion are important to breakage during combing and that
impact loading of one hair fiber over another during snagging
is a probable and important pathway for hair breakage.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 223-231 (May/June 2006)
Ethics of studies involving human volunteers.
II. Relevance and practical implementation for cosmetic scientists
P. A. CARSON and J. HOLT, Capenhurst Independent Research Ethics
Committee, "Rowanlea," 2 Greenfields Avenue, Bromborough, Wirral
CH62 6DD (P.A.C.), and 4-Front Research, Unit 6, Capenhurst
Technology Park, Capenhurst, Chester CH1 6ER (J.H.), U.K.
Accepted for publication January 19, 2006.
Synopsis
The importance to the personal products industry of testing
novel products in healthy human volunteers and the need to ensure
the trials were both safe and ethical were addressed in Part
I. The historical development of ethical standards for human
testing was also summarized. The present paper highlights the
ethical principles to be considered when testing novel non-medicinal
products on human volunteers, and it describes how they can
be implemented in a pragmatic manner to avoid delay to the sponsor's
research program. The structure and function of ethics committees
is discussed.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 215-221 (May/June 2006)
Ethics of studies involving human volunteers.
I. Historical background
P. A. CARSON and J. HOLT, Capenhurst Independent Research Ethics
Committee, "Rowanlea," 2 Greenfields Avenue, Bromborough, Wirral
CH62 6DD (P.A.C.), and 4-Front Research, Unit 6, Capenhurst
Technology Park, Capenhurst, Chester CH1 6ER (J.H.), U.K.
Accepted for publication January 19, 2006.
Synopsis
The evaluation of personal products using panels of human
volunteers is crucial to the continued development of the industry.
Nowadays, however, it is increasingly important to ensure that
such studies are both safe for the participants and are ethical.
As a means of defining general rules for judging and justifying
the ethics of human testing, historical milestones in the development
of human experimentation are given. While most experience originates
from biomedical research, findings help establish standards
of ethical review of non-therapeutic human testing used in the
cosmetics industry.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 205-214 (May/June 2006)
Chitosan beads loaded with essential oils in
cosmetic formulations C.
ANCHISI, M. C. MELONI, and A. M. MACCIONI, Dipartimento Farmaco
Chimico Tecnologico, Facoltą di Farmacia, Universita` degli
Studi di Cagliari, Via Ospedale 72, I-09124 Cagliari, Italy.
Accepted for publication December 2, 2005. Presented in
part at the XXVI Congreso Internacional de la Sociedad Farmace“utica
del Mediterra“neo Latino, Medicamentos del siglo XXI: Innovadores
y Gene“ricos, Palma de Mallorca, September 16-18, 2004.
Synopsis
The aim of this work is to evaluate the stability and release
of chitosan beads loaded with volatile molecules of Mentha piperita
essential oil (E.O.) in a cosmetic formulation. The ability
of the beads to quickly release Mentha piperita E.O. during
use of a cosmetic formulation such as a bath foam is also assessed.
The chitosan beads were produced with three different chitosan
dispersions gelled with two different gelling solutions: (a)
a 10% solution of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and (b) a 4% solution
of sodium tripolyphosphate (TPP). A few properties of six bead
samples loaded with Mentha piperita E.O. are assessed. The properties
are morphology, size, swelling ability, encapsulation efficiency,
stability in time, and fast release of Mentha piperita E.O.
during the use phase of the cosmetic formulation.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 245-257 (May/June 2006)
Hair breakage during combing. II. Impact loading
and hair breakage
CLARENCE ROBBINS, 12425 Lake Ridge Circle, Clermont, FL 34711.
Accepted for publication January 4, 2006.
Synopsis
During combing of hair, short fiber fragmentation (less
than 2.5 cm) and longer segment breaks occur by different pathways.
Longer fiber breaks most likely occur principally by impact
loading. Impact loading causes hair breakage at lower loads
than tensile loading, with essentially no increase in strain
versus normal tensile testing, which produces large strain increases.
Strain rates in impact loading are more similar to combing rates
than rates of extension in tensile loading, and the looped and
crossed hair formations in snags fit impact-load breakage better
than simple extension of straight/non-crossed hairs in tensile
testing. Extension or impacting hair fibers with flaws or damaged
hair sections such as damaged wrapped ends produces short fiber
fragmentation, while longer segment breaks may be produced in
fibers with natural flaws such as fiber twists, cracks, or badly
abraded or chemically weakened hair or even knots.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 259-260 (May/June 2006)
Abstracts
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Japan Vol. 40, No. 1, 2006*
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