J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 379–393 (November/December 2005)
An examination of non-invasive imaging techniques
in the analysis and review of cellulite
THERESA CALLAGHAN and KLAUS PETER WILHELM, proDERM Institute
for Applied Dermatological Research, Hamburg, Germany.
Accepted for publication July 18, 2005. Presented in part
at the 23rd IFSCC Congress, Orlando, Florida, October 2004.
379
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 395–406 (November/December 2005)
Cosmeceutical properties of levan produced by
Zymomonas mobilis
KI HO KIM, CHAN BOK CHUNG, YOUNG HEUI KIM,
KI SOO KIM, CHANG SUNG HAN, and CHUL HO KIM, R&D Center,
Bioland Ltd., Cheonan 330-863, Korea (K.H.K., C.B.C., Y.H.K.,
K.S.K., C.S.H.), and Metabolic Engineering Research Laboratory,
KRIBB, Taejon 305-333, Korea (C.H.K.).
Accepted for publication July 18, 2005.
Synopsis
Levan, a polysaccharide that can be produced by both plants
and microorganisms, is a sugar polymer composed of fructose,
with ?-2,6 linkages. Here, we have attempted to assess the possible
use of levan produced by Zymomonas mobilis as a cosmeceutical
ingredient. In service of this goal, we assessed a host of levan’s
properties, including its moisturizing effects, cell cytotoxicity,
cell proliferation effects, and anti¬inflammation effects.
Levan exhibited a moisturizing effect that was almost exactly
the same as that evidenced by hyaluronic acid, as well as a
similar cell proliferation effect in human fibroblast and keratinocyte
cell lines. Moreover, in our cell proliferation test, which
was conducted using bio-artificial skin constructed via 3-dimensional
(3-D) culture after the induction of primary skin inflammation
with 0.05% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), cell viability in the
presence of levan (0.01 mg/ml, 0.05 mg/ml) was determined to
be higher than cell viability in the absence of levan. In our
anti-inflammation test, which was also conducted using 3-D artificial
skin, and which involved the measurement of a quantity of secreted
interleukin-1? (IL-1?), a pre-inflammatory mediator induced
by SLS, we determined that the quantity of IL-1? in the 3-D
artificial skin treated with 0.01 mg/ml and 0.05 mg/ml of levan
was less than that registered in a skin sample that had been
treated only with SLS. In this study, we determined that levan
exerted an anti-inflammatory effect against inflam¬matory
reactions to skin irritants, and also that levan exerted a cell-proliferative
effect in bio-artificial skin, thereby indicating its potential
applicability as a cosmeceutical agent.
395
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 407–425 (November/December 2005)
Fading of artificial hair color and its prevention
by photofilters
B. LOCKE and J. JACHOWICZ, International Specialty Products,
Wayne, NJ 07470.
Accepted for publication August 9, 2005.
Synopsis
Fading of artificial hair color has been investigated by simulating
actual usage conditions through exposure to artificial radiation
in a weatherometer, with 0.35 mW/(m2 nm) at 340 nm, for 16 to
48 hours, and by periodical washing. Hair color was produced
by using commercial two-part, permanent hair dyes with light
auburn, medium auburn, and dark auburn shades. Formulations
based on red couplers, such as 4-amino¬2-hydroxytoluene
and 1-naphtol, as well as primary intermediates, such as 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diamino
pyrazole sulfate, were employed. Results indicate that the extent
of fading, as measured by the total color change parameter,
dE, is greatest for colored hair subjected to both irradiation
and shampooing, and significantly smaller for hair undergoing
only irradiation or washing. Color loss has been also found
to be dependent upon the hair type employed, with colored natural
white and bleached hair undergoing much greater change than
colored brown hair. It has been also shown that hair color based
on pyrazole interme¬diates displayed the deepest fading
as a result of shampooing (dE~4–6 after ten shampooings)
and irradia¬tion/shampooing (dE~14–16 after 32 hours
of light exposure and four shampooings).
The contribution of UV light (UVB + UVA) to the artificial hair-color
loss was found experimentally to be dependent upon the irradiation
dose and varied from 63% at 16 hours of irradiation time to
27% at 48 hours of light exposure. The theoretical extent of
photoprotection by a formulation was assessed by calculating
the percentage of UV light it attenuates in the wavelength range
from 290 nm to 400 nm. The results indicate that UVB photofilters,
such as octyl methoxy cinnamate, absorb less than 25% of the
total UV irradiation at concentrations as high as 30 mg/(g hair).
UVA absorbers were found to be more effective, with benzo¬phenone-3
and benzophenone-4 absorbing about 40% of UV at the same concentration.
Corresponding experimental data were in reasonable agreement
with the theoretical predictions.
The data are also presented for color protection with treatments
containing two photo-absorbers: benzo¬phenone-3–ZnO;
benzophenone-4–ZnO; octyl methoxy cinnamate–ZnO;
and dimethylpabaimidopropyl laurdimonium tosylate-benzophenone-3.
407
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 427–444 (November/December 2005)
Ability of moisturizers to reduce dry skin
and irritation and to prevent their return
F. ANTHONY SIMION, ERIC S. ABRUTYN, and ZOE D. DRAELOS, The
Kao Brands Company, 2535 Spring Grove Avenue, Cincinnati, OH
45214 (F.A.S., E.S.A), and Dermatology Consulting Services,
2444 North Main Street, High Point, NC 27262 (Z.D.D.).
Accepted for publication May 5, 2005. Presented in part
at the 58th Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology,
2000, and at the Annual Scientific Meeting of the Society of
Cosmetic Chemists, December 2000
Synopsis
Assays of moisturizer efficacy have traditionally focused on
a moisturizer’s ability to alleviate dry skin. More recently,
a moisturizer’s ability to prevent primary irritation
has been recognized. To assess and compare the ability of moisturizers
to alleviate skin dryness and primary irritation, as well as
prevent their return, four controlled-application clinical (in
vivo) studies were carried out: hand-wash test, regression test,
reduction in pre-existing irritation study, and prevention-of-irritation
studies. Overall conclusions were confirmed in a home-use clinical
(validation) study of people suffering from mild eczema.
The controlled in vivo studies demonstrate that: (a) a moisturizer
can alleviate skin dryness and irritation, and prevent their
return; and (b) the efficacy of different moisturizers can be
differentiated, based on their composition. The home-use study
results demonstrated that the most effective moisturizer identified
by the controlled-application studies was highly effective against
the signs of eczema.
In vivo modeling of moisturizer efficacy enables assessment
and optimization of different benefits separately, while predicting
the quantitative and perceived (observed) relevance of the benefits
the moisturizer delivers to consumers.
427
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 445–446 (November/December 2005)
Abstracts
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Vol. 27, No. 5, 2005*
445
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 447–448 (November/December 2005)
Abstracts
IFSCC Magazine
Vol. 8, No. 3, 2005*
447
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 449–479 (November/December 2005)
Papers Presented at the Annual Scientific
Seminar of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
(Friday’s Program)
June 2–3, 2005
Mandalay Bay Resort
Las Vegas, Nevada
449
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 481-487 (November/December 2005)
AUTHOR INDEX TO VOLUME 56
Abriat, A., Emotional and psychological effects of fragrance in men's skin care (Abstract, IFSCC), 281
Abrutyn, E. S., see DiMuzio, A. M., 356; see Simion, F. A., 427
Abu-Jdayil, B., Rheology of Dead Sea shampoo containing the antidandruff Climbazole (Abstract, IJCS), 152
Agisim, G., The nose knows or working at the "old factory" formulation parameters for nasal delivery systems (2004 Annual Scientific Meeting), 472
Akutsu, T., see Hiwatari, Y., 57
Al-Bawab, A., Evaporation of a model skin lotion with beta-hydroxy acids (Abstract, IJCS), 151
Albiston, L., see Wills, J., 64
Anton, J. M. G., see Cebrian, J., 445
Appa, Y., see Hornby, S. B., 282
Asa, T., see Nagai, Y., 205
Askar, N. A., see Syed, A. N., 463
Balaguer, P., see Wiechers, J. W., 209
Baldassari, S., see Villa, 207
Barkat, S., see Abriat, A., 281
Bastien, P., see Jourdain, R., 153
Beard, B. C., Electron spectroscopy and microscopy applied to chemical and structural analysis of hair, 65: Polymeric delivery systems for hair conditioner actives (2004 Annual Scientific Meeting), 466
Bellantone, R. A., see Mahamongkol, H., 91
Bensafi, M., see Abriat, A., 281
Berardesca, E., see Primavera, G., 207, 334
Berge, C. A., see Bissett, D. L., 60: see Robinson, L. R., 280
Biel, S. S., see Schepky, A. G., 59
Bielfeldt, S., see Scherdin, U., 60
Bissett, D. L., Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin, (Abstract, IJCS), 60: see Robinson, L. R., 280
Blaschke, J. W., Regulatory update on preservatives-Wordwide focus (2005 Annual Scientific Seminar), 364
Bordat, P., see Guitton, C., 79
Borelli, C., see Otte, N., 445
Boucesein, W., see Eisfeld, W., 211
Bowman, J. P., Effects of age on human cumulative irritation responses, 213: see Knaggs, H., 60
Bronaugh, R. L. see Haynes, C. T., 376
Buchholz, H., see Walenzyk, T., 280
Burgess, A. N., see Ren, X. J., 282
Butts, M. D., see Yamada, M., 193
Callaghan, T., An examination of non-invasive imaging techniques in the analysis and review of cellulite, 379
Calle, J., see Jiménez, J., 212
Cambria, F. M., see Beard, B. C., 65
Cantwell, M. Y., see DiMuzio, A. M., 356
Carlotti, M. E., see Sapino, S., 227
Carola, C., see Walenzyk, T., 280
Carson, J., A microscopic look at emulsions (2004 Annual Scientific Meeting), 450
Cebrian, J., New anti-RNS and -RCS products for cosmetic treatment (Abstract, IJCS), 445
Chang, M., see Kang, N., 281
Chaudhuri, R. K., Skin lightening and anti-aging ingredients-How are they interlinked? (2005 Annual Scientific Seminar), 354
Chen, H., Determination of phthalate esters in cosmetics by gas chromatography with flame ionization detection and mass spectrometric detection (Abstract, IJCS), 334
Chesné, C., see Wiechers, J. W., 209
Chin, C., see Wang, L-H., 183
Cho, I., see Kim, Y-D.,
Cho, W., see Kang, N., 281
Choi, M. J., Elastic vesicles as topical/ transdermal drug delivery systems (Abstract, IJCS), 334
Choi, S., see Kang, N., 281
Choi, Y., see Gao, T., 374
481
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 489–494 (November/December 2005)
SUBJECT INDEX TO VOLUME 56
Acid dye–metal complex
hair color, 29
Acne
sebaceous glands, 151 lactic acid treatment, 60 sodium ascorbyl
phosphate treatment, 279
Age changes
subcutaneous tissue, 149
Alkyl polyglucosides
chemistry, 459
Alpha hydroxy acids
hydrogel patch formulation, 210
Amphoteric surfactants
chemistry, 452
Analysis
hair lipids, 333
phthalate esters, 334
Analytical methods
ethanolamines, 206
triclocarban and triclosan, 183
triethanolamine, 206
Anti-aging skin care
ingredients, 354
modified superoxide dismutase, 281
palmitoyl pentapeptide, 280
skin care, 354
Anti-angiogenic compounds
menthol propyleneglycol carbonate, 470
Antidandruff shampoo
rheology, 152
Anti-inflammatory compounds
menthol propyleneglycol carbonate, 470
Antioxidants
ergothioneine, 17
skin, 59
skin cream, 79
Apple seed phytosterols
skin aging, 64
Ascorbic acid
effect on rheology of microemulsions, 267
Axillary bacteria
body odor, 209
Benzophenones
hair dye fading, 407 synthesis of spherical silica with benzophenones,
280
Beta-glucan
skin wrinkles, 211
Beta hydroxy acids
skin lotion, 150
Bleaching
cuticular damage, 219 reducing hair damage, 463 teeth, 121
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV absorber, 135
Butylparaben
synthesis, 207
Capsaicin
skin neurosensitivity test, 153
Carbon black
color use, 370
Cationic compounds
chemistry, 456 hair penetration, 323
Cellulite
characterization, 105 imaging techniques, 379
Chemistry
alkyl polyglucosides, 459 amphoteric surfactants, 452 cationic
surfactants, 456 emulsions, 450 esters, 453
Climbazole
shampoo rheology, 152
Coatings
light scattering, 193
Collagen
properties, 210
489
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