J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 1-16 (January/February 2005)
Characterization of the lipid composition at
the proximal root regions of human hair
YOSHINORI MASUKAWA, HIROFUMI NARITA, and GENJI IMOKAWA, Tochigi
Research Laboratories, Kao Corporation, 2606 Akabane, Ichikai,
Haga, Tochigi, 321-3497 Japan.
Accepted for publication December 3, 2004.
Synopsis
The hair lipid composition collected from 44 Japanese females
between 1 and 81 years of age was examined for eight lipids
including hydrocarbons (HCs), squalene (SQ), wax esters (WEs),
triglycerides (TGs), fatty acids (FAs), cholesterol (CH), ceramides
(CERs), and 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (MEA). In this study,
the 5-cm length from the proximal root end of hair fibers, which
had never been exposed to any chemical treatment, was used after
5-min incubation with hexane following shampooing. Hair lipids
were extracted with solvent and subsequent alkali-solvent and
were then analyzed by a combination of chromatography. Although
the average contents of the lipids showed great fluctuations
among individuals, there were significant correlations between
the levels of each lipid, which allowed for the classification
of the hair lipids into four groups: group A: SQ, WEs, TGs,
and FAs (designated as endogenous lipids based upon their sebum
origin); group B: CH and CERs (designated as endogenous lipids);
group C: HC (unknown origin); and group D: MEA (the other endogenous
lipid). A principal component analysis for eight lipids revealed
that the hair lipid composition was characterized by a predominant
negative correlation between each lipid for groups A and B.
This negative correlation suggests that the endogenous lipids
in group B serve as a barrier against the penetration of predominantly
sebum-derived exogenous lipids (group A). Endogenous lipids
consisting of CH and CERs (group B) and MEA (group D) should
be designated as intrinsic internal lipids of human hair.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 17-27 (January/February 2005)
L-Ergothioneine scavenges superoxide and singlet
oxygen and suppresses TNF-_ and MMP-1 expression in UV-irradiated
human dermal fibroblasts
KEI OBAYASHI, KOUJI KURIHARA, YURI OKANO, HITOSHI MASAKI, and
DANIEL B. YAROSH, Cosmos Technical Center Co. Ltd., 3-24-3,
Hasune, Itabashi-ku, Tokyo, 174-0046 Japan (K.O., K.K., Y.O.,
H.M.), and AGI Dermatics, 205 Buffalo Avenue, Freeport, NY 11520-4709
(D.B.Y.).
Accepted for publication November 16, 2004.
Synopsis
Ergothioneine (EGT) is a sulfur-containing amino acid, and is
presumed to function as a natural antioxidant. The purpose of
this study was to identify the nature of the antioxidant activity
and investigate the effects of EGT on UV-induced cellular response.
In chemical studies, EGT scavenged the superoxide anion radical
(oO2 -) and singlet oxygen (1O2). In cultured fibroblasts, EGT
suppressed TNF-_ up-regulation by UVB irradiation. In addition,
in fibroblasts exposed to UV-A, EGT suppressed the expression
of matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) protein by nearly 50%
and reduced MMP-1 mRNA expression. From these results, we conclude
that EGT scavenges reactive oxygen species generated by both
Type I and Type II photosensitization and suppresses both TNF-_
expression and MMP-1 at their transcriptional level. EGT may
reduce skin anti-aging effects after UV irradiation by the scavenging
of oO2 - and 1O2, and reducing signals for protease and inflammatory
activity.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 29-46 (January/February 2005)
A novel "permanent" acid-type hair color made
possible with dye-metal ion complex technology
M. OCHIAI, T. KAWASOE, M. YASUDA, Y. HARADA, T. KIMURA, T.
KAMBE, and J. KURITA, Product Development Center (M.O., T. Ka.,
Y.H., T. Kam.), Basic Research Center (M.Y., T. Ki.), and Institute
of Beauty Science (J. K.), Shiseido Co., Ltd., 2-2-1 Hayabuchi,
Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama-shi, 224-8558 Japan.
Accepted for publication December 14, 2004.
Presented in part at the 22nd Congress of the International
Federation of the Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC), Edinburgh,
Scotland, September 26, 2002.
Synopsis
The advantages and disadvantages of oxidative permanent and
acid-type semi-permanent hair colors are evident. The former
provides a longlasting "permanent" color, while the latter imparts
less damage to the hair. We developed a novel acid-type hair
color technology that can allow an acid dye and a metal ion
to form a complex inside the hair similar to the oxidative hair
color. It is well known that acid dye diffuses into the hair
and creates an ionic bond with the positively charged amino
acid residues of hair protein. However, the dye can be extracted
easily from the hair by daily shampooing due to the weakness
of the bond. In order to strengthen this bond and to prevent
the extraction of the dye by shampooing, an aluminum chloride
ion was chosen as the metal ion component to form the dye-metal
complex. A proper composition of penetration enhancers, benzyl
alcohol and ethyl alcohol, was required to allow acid dyes to
interact with the aluminum chloride ion after each component
penetrates deeply into the hair to form a complex inside the
hair. To provide color brightness and a color longevity effect
to hair color, glycolic acid was also selected due to the observation
that a weak acid with a small molecular weight would enhance
those effects.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 47-56 (January/February 2005)
A study of the photolightening mechanism of
red hair with visible and ultraviolet light: Comparison with
blond hair
T. TAKAHASHI and K. NAKAMURA, Kao Corporation, Hair-Care Research
Laboratories, 1-3, Bunka 2, Sumida-ku, Tokyo, 131-8501 Japan.
Accepted for publication December 9, 2004.
Synopsis
The photolightening behavior of red hair was investigated. Red
hair was found to lighten to a similar extent by irradiation
from both ultraviolet (UV) and visible (VIS) light. Under the
same irradiating conditions, blond hair was lightened by VIS
light but did not lighten by UV light until it was washed after
irradiation (1). These different photolightening behaviors of
red and blond hair are supposed to be due to differences in
their melanin compositions. The dominant type of melanin in
red hair is pheomelanin; while blond hair investigated in the
previous work contained both eumelanin and pheomelanin, with
mainly eumelanin (2). Consequently, in this investigation, the
photolightening behaviors of red and blond hair were compared
to clarify the differences in photosensitivity between the two
types of melanin. It has been proven that chemically intact
melanin in red hair is considerably more photolabile to UV light
than VIS light. Also, it is much more easily decomposed by UV
light than melanin granules in blond hair, although they are
both similarly decomposed by VIS light. This indicates that
pheomelanin is far more sensitive to UV light than eumelanin,
while these two types of melanin are similarly sensitive to
VIS light. This leads to the following hypothetical photolightening
mechanism of red hair: When UV light is irradiated on red hair,
the light is absorbed by hair protein and attenuated before
it reaches the melanin granules. However, since pheomelanin
is highly sensitive to UV light, even the attenuated UV light
decomposes the pheomelanin to some extent. As a result, UV light
lightens red hair without the need for subsequent washing, in
contrast to blond hair, which consists of mainly eumelanin.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 57-58 (January/February 2005)
Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Japan Vol. 38, No. 3, 2004* * These abstracts appear as they
were originally published. They have not been edited by the
Journal of Cosmetic Science.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 59-61 (January/February 2005)
Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 26, No. 5, 2004* * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 63-64 (January/February 2005)
Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 7, No. 4, 2004* * These
abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have
not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 56, 65-77 (January/February 2005)
Electron spectroscopy and microscopy applied
to chemical and structural analysis of hair
B. C. BEARD, A. JOHNSON, F. M. CAMBRIA, and P. N. TRINH, Akzo
Nobel Surfactants America, Akzo Nobel Chemicals, 1 Livingstone
Ave., Dobbs Ferry, NY 10522.
Synopsis
The application of surface specific x-ray photoelectron spectroscopy
(XPS) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) will be shown to
be an effective means for the elucidation of hair fiber surface
chemistry and structure. Example studies of bleaching and fiber
conditioning treatments are discussed. The bleached fiber surface
is found to become more hydrophilic due to the loss of the naturally
occurring hydrocarbon overlayer and oxidation of surface functional
groups as a result of bleaching. Comparison between generic
bleaching regimens illustrates the importance of increased pH
and the presence of surfactant for effective treatment. Adsorption
of conditioning diester quat and dimethicone molecules reintroduces
a hydrophobic like surface layer on the hair fiber. Spectroscopic
data indicates a segregated adsorption structure of the chemically
different conditioning molecules. Electron microscope Images
of the conditioned hair shows a smooth uniform surface.
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