J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 139-148 (March/April 2004)
Photostability of naturally occurring whitening
agents in cosmetic microemulsions
M. GALLARATE, M. E. CARLOTTI, M. TROTTA, A. E. GRANDE, and
C. TALARICO, Dipartimento di Scienza e Tecnologia del Farmaco,
Universita` di Torino, Via Pietro Giuria, 9 10125 Turin (M.G.,
M.E.C., M.T., A.E.G.), and Perlarom, Turin (C.T.), Italy.
Accepted for publication July 29, 2003.
Synopsis
An o/w microemulsion formulated using lecithin and an alkyl
glucoside as mild, non-irritant surfactants was proposed as
a cosmetic vehicle for arbutin and kojic acid, naturally occurring
whitening agents. After assessing the physicochemical stability
of the microemulsion in the presence and absence of whitening
agents, several perfumed compositions, developed using fragrant
molecules of natural or synthetic origin, were introduced, and
the olfactory impact of the perfumed microemulsion was evaluated.
The photostability to UVB irradiation of both whitening agents
was determined in aqueous solutions and in microemulsions, and
also in the presence of the perfumed compositions. The stability
of arbutin and kojic acid was higher in microemulsions than
in aqueous solutions, and only in some cases did the presence
of odorous molecules appear to influence it: linalool exerted
some protective effect towards kojic acid photodegradation.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 149-155 (March/April 2004)
Normal human epidermal keratinocytes treated
with 7-dehydrocholesterol express increased levels of heat shock
protein
THOMAS MAMMONE, NEELAM MUIZZUDDIN, EARL GOYARTS, DAVID GAN,
PAOLO GIACOMONI, KEN MARENUS, and DANIEL MAES, Estee Lauder
Laboratories, 125 Pinelawn Road, Melville, NY 11747.
Accepted for publication January 26, 2004.
Synopsis
Human skin, and its isolated cells, respond to insults with
a variety of repair and protective mechanisms. One such mechanism
is the production of heat shock proteins (HSPs). Heat shock
proteins help the other cellular proteins fold correctly into
their active three-dimensional structures. Therefore, they can
enhance the survival of cells under harsh, denaturing conditions.
In order to develop a means of promoting the heat shock response
to prepare the skin to withstand insult, we are investigating
materials that appear to protect the skin biologically. One
such material is vitamin D3 and its precursors. We have observed
that keratinocytes treated with 7-dehydrocholesterol (7-DHC),
a precursor of vitamin D3, have increased levels of protein
and mRNA for heat shock proteins. In addition, we observed that
topically applied 7-DHC increases the minimal dose of UVB required
to induce erythema. These data suggest that 7-DHC can induce
heat shock proteins in skin keratinocytes and that they will
be more resistant to UVB insult.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 157-162 (March/April 2004)
Lack of burning and stinging from a novel first-aid
formulation applied to experimental wounds
A. PAGNONI, G. SPINELLI, R. S. BERGER, J. BOWMAN, S. GARREFFA,
and A. M. SNODDY, Hill Top Research, Inc., 388 Ryders Lane,
Milltown, NJ 08850 (A.P., R.S.B., J.B.), and Bayer Consumer
Care, 36 Columbia Road, Morristown, NJ 07960 (G.S., S.G., A.M.S.).
Accepted for publication May 20, 2003.
Synopsis
Antiseptic-anesthetic first aid formulations typically produce
a burning or stinging sensation when used on wounds. The aim
of this study was to assess the lack of sting/burn potential
of a prototype first-aid wipe when applied to superficial wounds.
This was a one-day, double-blind, randomized study, evaluating
the stinging/burning sensation from a prototype first-aid wipe
with a cellulose base containing 1.0% pramoxine HCL and 0.13%
benzalkonium chloride. The study followed a direct comparison
test design of four test formulations. The remaining three articles
were: (a) sterile 0.9% sodium chloride (no-sting/no-burn control),
(b) 3% hydrogen peroxide (first-aid sting/burn control), and
(c) 70% isopropyl alcohol (second sting/burn control). The test
was performed on 24 subjects. The tape stripping method was
used to create four standardized wounds on the volar forearms,
reaching the glistening layer. Each test article was applied
to the wound for 15 seconds. The subjects were asked to report
the intensity of the stinging/burning sensation during the application.
The prototype pramoxine-benzalkonium chloride wipe produced
significantly less stinging/burning than both 70% isopropyl
alcohol and 3% hydrogen peroxide. Also, the prototype wipe did
not produce more stinging and burning in superficial wounds
compared to the saline control.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 163-176 (March/April 2004)
Salivary films on hydroxyapatite studied by
an in vitro system for investigating the effect of metal ions
and by a quartz-crystal microbalance system for monitoring layer-by-layer
film formation
Y. TANIZAWA, N. JOHNA, Y. YAMAMOTO, and N. NISHIKAWA, Analytical
Research Center, Lion Corporation, Hirai, Edogawa-ku, Tokyo
132-0035, Japan
Accepted for publication January 26, 2004.
Synopsis
The salivary film or the acquired pellicle is a protein
film formed initially on the enamel surface of teeth. Such a
film plays an important role in enamel protection, but is also
an initial substructure for the formation of plaque and the
cosmetically undesirable colored stain. The composition and
the structure of the film are still essentially unknown because
of the difficulty of its isolation for characterization. The
purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of some
metal cations on the salivary film or the pellicle formation,
and also to clarify the mechanism of development. First, using
infrared spectroscopy (IR) and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy
(XPS), the in situ-formed film in the mouth was confirmed to
contain selectively adsorbed well-known proteins. Then, in vitro
studies have demonstrated that Ca2+ ions enhance film formation
at the initial stage in virtue of Ca bridging and, interestingly,
that Mg2+ ions oppositely inhibit the formation. Furthermore,
the quartz-crystal microbalance (QCM), utilized successfully
for the first time to study the salivary film, has shown the
possibility of an alternate accumulation mechanism by which
the surface charges on the film are effectively reversed by
the opposite charged proteins.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 177-187 (March/April 2004)
Delivery of vitamin E to the skin by a novel
liquid skin cleanser: Comparison of topical versus oral supplementation
AMIR TAVAKKOL, ZEENAT NABI, NADIA SOLIMAN, and THOMAS G. POLEFKA,
Colgate-Palmolive Company, 909 River Road, Piscataway, NJ 08855.
Accepted for publication January 26, 2004.
These studies were presented in part at the Annual Meeting
of the Society for Investigative Dermatology, Washington DC,
2000.
Synopsis
Topical supplementation represents an attractive approach
to mitigate environmentally induced deficiencies of skin vitamin
E (_-tocopherol). We report here the impact of natural sunlight
on stratum corneum (SC) vitamin E and also compare the effectiveness
of dietary supplementation to topical application as a way to
increase vitamin E in the superficial layers of the SC. The
effects of natural sunlight, 30 minutes of midday sunlight,
were measured on two separate occasions. Vitamin E in the surface
layers of the SC was measured by HPLC after ethanol extraction.
Under these relevant conditions, vitamin E in the superficial
SC was reduced in a dose-dependent manner by 50-65%. In a followup
study, panelists entered into a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled
study. In this study, one group washed their skin once daily
for one minute with a commercially available body wash containing
0.15% vitamin E and 0.10% vitamin E acetate, while the second
group used a body wash without vitamin E but also supplemented
their diet with 400 IU _-tocopherol (18× RDI). Not surprisingly,
only dietary supplementation increased serum vitamin E ( twofold).
Although both treatment modalities increased SC vitamin E, topical
delivery was significantly more effective (53-fold vs baseline)
than dietary delivery (eightfold vs baseline). Moreover, only
topical delivery increased SC vitamin E acetate (19-fold vs
baseline). The results reported here indicate that vitamin E
in the superficial layers of the SC is depleted readily by even
a brief exposure to sunlight and that use of a vitamin E body
wash can substantially increase the vitamin E in this superficial
layer more effectively than dietary supplementation.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 189-205 (March/April 2004)
Clinical effects of cosmetic vehicles on skin
JOACHIM W. FLUHR and LUIGI RIGANO, Department of Dermatology
and Allergology, Friedrich Schiller University, Jena, Germany
(J.W.F.), and ISPE Research Institute, Milan, Italy (L.R.).
Accepted for publication January 26, 2004.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 207-231 (March/April 2004)
Papers Presented at the 2003 Annual Scientific
Meeting and Technology Showcase (Friday's Program) December
4-5, 2003 New York Hilton New York, NY
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