J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 229-238 (May/June 2003)
Inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and
-2 expression using nitric oxide synthase inhibitors in UV-irradiated
human dermal fibroblasts
TAEBOO CHOE, BUMCHUN LEE, INCHUL PARK, and SEOKIL HONG, Division
of Chemical and Biological Engineering, Konkuk University, Hwayang-dong
l, Kwangjin-gu, Seoul 143-701 (T.C.), Hanbul Cosmetics, Samsung-myun,
Umsung-kun, Chungbuk (B.L.), and Laboratory of Cell Biology,
Korea Cancer Center Hospital, Seoul (I.P., S.H.), Korea.
Accepted for publication March 4, 2002.
Synopsis
The production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) by UV-irradiated
skin fibroblasts and the degradation of the extracellular matrix
by these enzymes is known as one of the main causes of photoaging.
Recently, the Fisher group showed that MMP expression is mainly
regulated by members of the mitogen-activated protein kinase
family such as extracellular signal-regulated kinase, c-Jun
amino-terminal kinase, and p38, each of which forms a signaling
pathway. In this work, we initially examined the effect of nitric
oxide (NO) and nitric oxide synthase (NOS) inhibitors on the
production of MMP-1 and MMP-2 by human dermal fibroblasts (HDF).
NO is a multifunctional messenger molecule generated from L-arginine
and can activate guanylate cyclase to increase cGMP. We found
that treatment of HDF with an NO donor, sodium nitroprusside
(50 microM), enhanced the expression of MMP-1 and -2 by 153%
and 243%, respectively, and treatment by 8-Br-cGMP enhanced
MMP-1 and -2 expression by 137% and 254%, respectively. When
UV-irradiated HDF was treated with NOS inhibitors such as aminoguanidine
(AG) and baicalein (BAC), there resulted a decrease in MMP production.
When 20 microM of BAC was added in the culture media of UV-irradiated
HDF, only 40% of MMP-1 and 42% of MMP-2 was produced, compared
to the case without BAC. Taken together, we concluded that the
production of MMP-1 and -2 by UV-irradiated HDF is regulated
through the signaling pathway involving NO and that it can be
downregulated using NOS inhibitors. 229
J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 239-250 (May/June 2003)
Diffusion of preservatives from topical dosage
forms: A comparative study
ELISABETTA ESPOSITO, FABRIZIO BORTOLOTTI, CLAUDIO NASTRUZZI,
ENEA MENEGATTI, and RITA CORTESI, Department of Pharmaceutical
Sciences, University of Ferrara, I-44100 Ferrara (E.E., F.B.,
E.M., R.C.), and Institute of Drug Chemistry and Technology,
University of Perugia, I-06100 Perugia (C.N.), Italy.
Accepted for publication August 19, 2002.
Synopsis
A study of the diffusion of parabens from topical formulations
is presented here. In particular, four different topical formulations,
namely, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, and
two hydrophilic gels (Pemulen gel and Carbopol gel) were produced,
containing a mixture of three common parabens, namely, methylparaben
(MP), ethylparaben (EP), and propylparaben (PP). An analytical
method based on liquid extraction, followed by reversed-phase
HPLC for the quantitative determination of MP, EP, and PP, was
developed. The method allowed good separation of paraben mixtures
and high percentages of recovery (> than 97%). The diffusion
kinetics of parabens from the produced formulations was determined
by an in vitro system based on a Franz cell assembled with a
synthetic membrane, followed by a reversed-phase HPLC analytical
method. The comparative study demonstrated that, in the case
of emulsions, diffusion coefficients are a function of the substituent
of preservatives: the higher the solubility, the higher the
diffusion of parabens. On the contrary, in the case of the hydrophilic
gels, the higher the parabens solubility, the lower the diffusion
coefficients. The method described here could represent a means
of controlling the extent of diffusion of parabens from topical
formulations in order to minimize percutaneous absorption and
to control the availability of microbes. 239
J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 251-261 (May/June 2003)
N,N_,N__-tris(dihydroxyphosphorylmethyl)-1,4,7-
triazacyclononane (Deofix™)-A high-affinity, high-specificity
chelator for first transition series metal cations with significant
deodorant, antimicrobial, and antioxidant activity
KARL LADEN, HAIM ZAKLAD, ELLIOT D. SIMHON, JOSEPH Y. KLEIN,
and ROSA L. CYJON, Complexx R&D Services, Keren Hayesod St.,
Bldg. 6, Tirat Carmel 39026, Israel; and HARRY S. WINCHELL,
LLC, 3205 Northwood Drive, Bldg. 5, Concord, CA 94520.
Accepted for publication April 29, 2002.
Synopsis
Deofix™, N,N_,N__-tris(dihydroxyphosphorylmethyl)-1,4,7-triazacyclononane,
is a high-affinity, highspecificity chelator for first transition
series cations such as iron, zinc, manganese, and copper. A
1% solution in 50% ethanol was found to be significantly better
at reducing underarm malodor than a solution of 0.3% Triclosan
in 50% ethanol. Compared to a 50% alcohol control, Deofix™ was
found to produce a significant reduction in malodor for at least
48 hours. Deofix™ appears to work by reducing the concentration
of first transition series metal ions below the levels needed
for microbial cell reproduction and by inhibiting oxidative
processes by interfering with catalytic formation of free radicals.
Deofix™ has very low levels of toxicity when measured via a
number of screening techniques. 251
J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 263-270 (May/June 2003)
The hair strand test-A new method for testing
antifungal effects of antidandruff preparations
PETER MAYSER, HORST ARGEMBEAUX, and FRANK RIPPKE, Zentrum fu¨r
Dermatologie und Andrologie der Justus-Liebig-Universita¨t Gießen,
Gaffkystr. 14, 35385 Gießen (P.M.), and Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg
(H.A., F.R.), Germany.
Accepted for publication August 19, 2002. Parts of this
manuscript were presented at the 35th Annual Meeting of the
Deutschsprachige Mykologische Gesellschaft, Marburg, Germany,
September 13-15, 2001.
Synopsis
Seborrheic dermatitis and its minimal variant, dandruff (pityriasis
simplex capillitii), are among the most frequent diseases caused
by Malassezia (M.) yeasts. Treatment studies have shown that
antimycotics achieve clinical improvement, while recolonization
leads to recurrent symptoms. Among the antimycotics used are
azoles, hydroxypyridones, and various agents such as zinc pyrithione,
tar, and selenium disulfide. However, comparative efficacy studies
in vitro should not only consider the minimal inhibitory concentrations
against Malassezia yeasts but also the bioavailability of the
individual substances with regard to hair and scalp. By means
of a new method, the hair strand test, hairs from ten volunteers
were subjected to standardized 5-min incubation with different
shampoo formulations. Thereafter they were rinsed with running
water for 1 min and dried. Two hundred each of these hairs (length
1 cm) were given into a medium (olive oil on selective agar
for pathogenic fungi) inoculated with M. sympodialis or M. globosa
(5 × 103 CFU/µl), and the influence on growth was semiquantitatively
determined over a period of up to 18 days. According to preliminary
results, 1% climbazole proved to be particularly effective.
The hair strand test, which can also be performed ex vivo, is
a new method to find out whether antimycotic agents bind differently
to the hair substance and, via a depot effect, may influence
the growth of Malassezia yeasts and thus affect dandruff. This
allows conclusions about the efficacy of antidandruff formulations.
263
J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 271-281 (May/June 2003)
UV radiation: Aggressive agent to the hair-AFM,
a new methodology of evaluation
V. F. MONTEIRO, A. S. PINHEIRO, E.R. LEITE, J. A. M. AGNELLI,
M. A. PEREIRA-DA-SILVA, and E. LONGO, CMDMC/LIEC/DQ/UFSCar (V.F.M.,
A.S.P., E.L.) and DEMa/UFSCar (J.A.M.A.), Universidade Federal
de Sa˜o Carlos, Rod Washington Luis Km 235, Caixa Postal, 676,
Sa˜o Carlos, SP, Brazil 13565-905; and Universidade de São Paulo,
Instituto de Fisica, São Carlos, SP, Brazil 13560-970 (M.A.P.-D.-S.).
Accepted for publication June 18, 2002.
Synopsis
A new method for morphological hair analysis at high resolution
and under ambient conditions is presented in this paper. The
AFM has been used in these experiments to analyze morphological
changes in hair roughness and thickness after UV radiation.
Through the powerful analytical AFM tools, changes in hair morphology
can be proven. A new quantitative methodology to evaluate hair
structure is presented in this paper. 271
J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 283-288 (May/June 2003)
A comparison of the mosquito-repelling efficacy of methyl neodecanamide
(MNDA) to that of Deet THOMAS G. POLEFKA, LI-JUNG LIANG, and
TARACAD NARAYANAN ANANTHAKRISHNAN, Colgate-Palmolive Company,
909 River Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854 (T.G.P., L.L.), and Entomology
Research Institute, Loyola College, Madras-600 034, India (T.N.A.).
Accepted for publication July 1, 2002.
Synopsis
The objective of this small pilot study was to assess the mosquito-repelling
efficacy of methyl neodecanamide (MNDA) relative to N,N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide
(Deet) against Anopheles stephensi, Culex quinquefasciatus,
and Aedes aegypti under controlled laboratory conditions. In
this study, subjects inserted both forearms (sham- and repellent-treated)
into a test chamber containing 50 female mosquitoes. The number
of mosquitoes landing on or probing each forearm during the
5-minute "forced-choice" test session was recorded each hour
for a total of eight hours. Effectiveness was calculated according
to Abbott's formula. Experimental results indicate that topical
application of 1% MNDA provided significantly better protection
and a broader spectrum of repellency than application of 1%
Deet against the three species of mosquitoes. These promising
results support further study of MNDA as a topical mosquito
repellent. 283
J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 289-300 (May/June 2003)
Effect of soaking and natural moisturizing factor
on stratum corneum water-handling properties
MARTY O. VISSCHER, GAURAV T. TOLIA, R. RANDALL WICKETT, and
STEVEN B. HOATH, The Skin Sciences Institute (M.O.V., S.B.H.),
Cincinnati Children's Hospital Medical Center (M.O.V., S.B.H.),
and College of Pharmacy (G.T.T., R.R.W.), University of Cincinnati,
Cincinnati, OH 45267.
Accepted for publication June 18, 2002. Presented as a poster
at the Annual Scientific Seminar of the Society of Cosmetic
Chemists, New Orleans, May 2001.
Synopsis
Stratum corneum (SC) hydration is partially regulated by water-soluble
molecules, natural moisturizing factor (NMF) that is associated
with the corneocytes. Routine water exposure, e.g., bathing,
may deplete NMF and alter the SC water-handling properties.
We determined the effects of bathing and solvent extraction
on the volar forearm skin of eleven healthy volunteers. Acetone/ether
(A/E) was used to remove surface and upper SC lipids. Adjacent
sites were soaked for ten minutes or treated with the A/E-plus-soak
combination. Subsequently, an NMF formulation was applied to
the treated sites, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration,
and moisture accumulation rate (MAT) were measured. A/E extraction
increased TEWL, but did not effect MAT. Soaking produced a short-term
increase in TEWL, followed by a decrease, and substantially
reduced MAT, an effect that was maintained for five hours. NMF
application significantly decreased TEWL and significantly increased
MAT for all sites. The replacement experiment suggests that
the MAT reduction occurred as a result of extraction of hygroscopic
NMF components. The effects of soaking and NMF application are
more readily detected by the MAT technique, whereas TEWL is
more sensitive to A/E extraction. The results support the use
of multiple assessments of barrier function and raise questions
about the effects of cumulative repeated water exposure on SC
function. 289
J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 301-316 (May/June 2003)
Analyzing the laser-light reflection from human
hair fibers. I. Light components underlying the goniophotometric
curves and fiber cuticle angles
F.-J. WORTMANN, DWI, Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitut e. V.,
Veltmanplatz 8, 52062 Aachen, Germany, E. SCHULZE ZUR WIESCHE,
Henkel KGaA, Henkelstrasse 67, 40191 Du¨sseldorf, Germany, and
A. BIERBAUM, Fiantec GmbH, Technologiezentrum, Europaplatz,
52068 Aachen, Germany.
Accepted for publication August 1, 2002.
Synopsis
The consumer may repeatedly over the day apply intensive grooming
procedures to maintain and improve hair appearance. Among these,
brushing and combing are responsible for changes if not damage
to the hair fiber surface. Beneficial or unfavorable changes
to the hair surface may furthermore result from any cosmetic
treatment. The analysis of laser-light reflection and scattering
of human hair fibers is a direct, quick, and non-destructive
method to monitor such surface changes. The application of a
laser-based, multichannel goniophotometer is described, by which
this analysis is based on the determination of the complete
angular distribution of reflected light within a sub-second
time interval. Systematic investigations of hairs differing
in ethnic origin and color show that the goniophotometric curves
can be analyzed by assuming three fractions of reflected light,
namely, specularly, diffusely, and internally reflected light.
Prominent effects are related to changes of the relative intensities
of the different light fractions with hair color. The angular
intensity distribution for each of the light fractions is well
described by a Gaussian distribution. The angular positions
of the peaks and their widths are analyzed. From the systematic
shift of the intensity peak for specularly reflected light from
its expectation angle, the tilt angle of the cuticle cells on
the hair fiber surface is determined. All results are discussed
with respect to changes along the hair length and for color
differences. 301
J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 317-319 (May/June 2003)
Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic
Chemists Japan Volume 36, No. 1, 2002 317
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