J. Cosmet.
Sci., 53, 321-335 (November/December 2002)
In vitro
antioxidant and in vivo photoprotective effects of a lyophilized
extract of Capparis spinosa L. buds
F. BONINA,
C. PUGLIA, D. VENTURA, R. AQUINO, S. TORTORA, A. SACCHI, A.
SAIJA, A. TOMAINO, M. L. PELLEGRINO, and P. de CAPRARIIS, Department
of Pharmaceutical Sciences, School of Pharmacy, University of
Catania, Catania (F.B., C.P., D.V.), Department of Pharmaceutical
Sciences, University of Salerno, Salerno (R.A., S.T., P.d.C.),
Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, University Federico
II, Naples (A.Sac.), Department of Pharmacology of Natural Substances
& General Physiology, University of Rome "La Sapienza," Rome
(A.Sai.), and Department Farmaco-Biologico, University of Messina,
Messina (A.T., M.L.P.), Italy.
Accepted
for publication April 29, 2002.
Synopsis
The aim of the present study was to evaluate the in vitro antioxidant
and in vivo photoprotective activities of a lyophilized extract
of Capparis spinosa L. (LECS) obtained by methanolic extraction
from the flowering buds of this plant. For the in vitro experiments,
LECS was tested employing three different models: (a) bleaching
of the stable 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH test);
(b) peroxidation, induced by the water-soluble radical initiator
2,2_-azobis(2-amidinopropane) hydrochloride, of mixed dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine/
linoleic acid unilamellar vesicles (LUVs) (LP-LUV test); and
(c) UV-induced peroxidation of phosphatidylcholine multilamellar
vesicles (UV-IP test). The in vivo antioxidant/radical scavenger
activity was assessed by determining the ability of topically
applied LECS to reduce UVB-induced skin erythema in healthy
human volunteers. From the results obtained in in vitro and
in vivo tests, LECS showed a significant antioxidant effect.
Furthermore, by chromatographic fractionation and spectroscopic
methods, we identified the major constituents of LECS, and particularly
some flavonols (kaempferol and quercetin derivatives) and hydroxycinnamic
acids (caffeic acid, ferulic acid, p-cumaric acid, and cinnamic
acid). 321
J. Cosmet.
Sci., 53, 337-344 (November/December 2002)
Labile proteins
accumulated in damaged hair upon permanent waving and bleaching
treatments
TAKAFUMI
INOUE, MAYUMI ITO, andKENJI KIZAWA, Basic Research Laboratory,
Kanebo Ltd., Kotobuki-cho 5-3-28 Odawara 250-0002, Japan.
Accepted
for publication April 29, 2002. Presented at the 48th Scientific
Meeting of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan, Osaka, June
19, 2001.
Synopsis
We previously foundthat certain hair proteins were soluble by
means of a partial extraction method. In this study, we demonstrate
that the amount of soluble proteins internally formedin permedandbleachedhair,
labile proteins, is a useful index for hair damage assessment.
Compared to tensile property changes, this index rose in widely
dynamic ranges as the time of either permanent waving or bleaching
treatments increased. The amount of labile proteins was much
larger than that of proteins elutedinto perming and bleaching
lotions. However, the labile proteins showedelectrophoretic
profiles similar to those of the eluted proteins. These results
suggest that a portion of the stable proteins in normal hair
was transformedinto labile proteins upon permanent waving andbleaching
treatments. Consequently, permedandbleachedhair tends to release
the resultant labile proteins. 337
J. Cosmet.
Sci., 53, 345-361 (November/December 2002)
Mechanical
analysis of elasticity and flexibility of virgin and polymer-treated
hair fiber assemblies J.
JACHOWICZ
AND R. MCMULLEN, International Specialty Products, Wayne, NJ
Accepted
for publication June 18, 2002.
Synopsis
The elasticity and flexibility of virgin and polymer-treated
hair fiber assemblies were investigated by employing straight
hair tresses or hair shaped into omega loops. Polymer treatment
was accomplished by saturating fibers with polymeric solutions,
resulting in a deposition of 10-90 mg of polymer per gram of
hair. The mechanical testing procedure consisted of subjecting
omega-loop-shaped hair or straight hair tresses to multiple
bending deformations at 25% strain in a texture analyzer. A
total of ten deformations were typically carried out, and elasticity
or flexibility parameters were evaluated from data such as (a)
the force at 8% deformation, i.e., within the elastic region
of bending deformation for hair shaped into an omega loop, (b)
maximum force in the first (F1) and tenth (F10) deformation
cycles, (c) elastic modulus in the first (E1) and tenth (E10)
deformation cycles, and (d) the change in hair sample dimensions
between the first (H1) and tenth (H10) deformation cycles. Parameters
such as stiffness ratio (1), F10/F1, E10/E1, and H10/H1 were
employed to characterize hair tress rigidity, flexibility or
resistance to breakage, and plasticity. Untreated hair was found
to be almost perfectly elastic and flexible at 50% RH, evident
by the linear dependence of force vs deformation. Flexibility
parameters F10/F1, E10/E1, and H10/H1 were in the range of 0.95
to 1.0 at low humidity, while the parameters F10/F1 and E10/E1
and were 10% lower at 90% RH. Examination of polymer-modified
hair allowed for classification of treatments into categories
termed brittle, quite flexible and nonplastic, flexible and
plastic, very flexible and very plastic, and very flexible and
nonplastic. Poly- (vinyl pyrrolidone) is shown as an example
of a quite flexible and nonplastic material, with its flexibility
and stiffness dependent upon its molecular weight. The effect
of plasticizers on polymer behavior is also discussed. 345
J. Cosmet.
Sci., 53, 363-374 (November/December 2002)
The skin-permeation-enhancing
effect of phosphatidylcholine: Caffeine as a model active ingredient
CHINHAN
KIM, JONGWON SHIM, SANGHOON HAN, and IHSEOP CHANG, Skin Research
Institute, Pacific Co./R&D Center, 314-1, Bora-ri, Kiheung-eup,
Yongin-si, Kyounggi-do, 449-900, Korea.
Accepted
for publication April 29, 2002.
Synopsis
Phospholipids or liposomes are recognized to have skin permeation
enhancing ability, although their mechanisms are still controversial.
The aim of this study was to establish amethod of increasing
the skin permeation of active ingredients, using phosphatidylcholine
as a permeation enhancer. Caffeine was used as a model active
ingredient and in vitro skin penetration experiments were performed
using Franz-type diffusion cells to determine the amount of
absorbed caffeine. Lipid vesicles were prepared by the microfluidization
process. The encapsulation efficiency of caffeine was found
to be very low due to the instability of the liposome structure
and the water solubility of caffeine. However, the amount of
absorbed caffeine was nearly independent of the encapsulation
efficiency and the vesicle size, but increased with the increase
of phosphatidylcholine concentration. These results indicated
that phosphatidylcholine could act as a penetration enhancer,
irrespective of its presence in vesicular form or solubilized
form. 363
J. Cosmet.
Sci., 53, 375-386 (November/December 2002)
Stability
and release of topical tranexamic acid liposome formulations
A. MANOSROI,
K. PODJANASOONTHON, and J. MANOSROI, Pharmaceutical-Cosmetic
Raw Materials and Natural Products Research and Development
Center, Institute for Science and Technology Research and Development,
Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiang Mai University, ChiangMai 50200,
Thailand.
Accepted
for publication April 29, 2002.
Synopsis
Tranexamic acid (TA) has been claimed to have whitening effects.
The effects of TA contents (5% and 10%) and charges on the stability
and release of TA entrapped in hydrogenated soya phosphatidylcholine/
cholesterol/charged lipid {dicetyl phosphate (-) or stearylamine
(+)} liposomes at molar ratios of 7:2:1(-) and 7:2:1 (+) were
investigated. The TA contents were determined spectrophotometrically
at 415 nm, following derivatization with 2,4,6-trinitrobenzosulfonic
acid. Stability and leakage of TA from liposomes were characterized
at 4°, 30° and 45°C for 90 days. The leakage rates of TA in
negative liposomes were lower than those in positive liposomes.
The TA in all liposome formulations was relatively stable, as
> 90% of total drug remained after up to two months. The release
of TA from liposomes was examined using vertical Franz diffusion
cells at 37°C for 24 h. The release rates of TA from all liposome
formulations were 3 times lower than those from solutions. Charges
appeared to affect the physical stability, leakage, and shelf
life of TA in liposomes, whereas TA concentrations seemed to
affect the release of TA. The 7:2:1 (10% TA,-) liposome was
the best formulation, due to its small size, low leakage, high
stability, and prolonged and sustained release profile. 375
J. Cosmet.
Sci., 53, 387-402 (November/December 2002)
Influence
of internal structure of hair fiber on hair appearance. II.
Consideration of the visual perception mechanism of hair appearance
SHINOBU
NAGASE, NAOKI SATOH, and KOICHI NAKAMURA, Kao Corporation, Hair
Care Research Laboratories, 1-3, Bunka 2-chome, Sumida-ku, Tokyo,
131-8501 Japan.
Accepted
for publication May 29, 2002. Based on a presentation given
at the 12th International Hair-Science Symposium of DWI, Heidelberg,
Germany, September 7, 2001.
Synopsis
The optical properties of hair fibers were studied, focusing
on the reflections (highlights) from both the front and the
back surfaces of the fiber in consideration and on the effect
these have on the perceptions of hair appearance. The two reflections
are distinguished from each other by sight, because only the
back surface reflection is colored by melanin granules and/or
dyestuffs inside the fiber. When we observe a flat plate as
a model for hair without a cuticle structure, the visual angle
between the two light loci correlates with the thickness of
the model plate and gives an impression of depth. In the case
of hair with a cuticle angle, the visual angle is maintained
even when the fiber thickness is reduced. This visual angle
causes an overestimation of the thickness and enhances the impression
of depth. The visual angle changes dramatically with a curl
curvature change of the hair tress, meaning that the impression
of depth is also dynamically changed by a small change in hairstyle.
The dynamic change in the impression of depth probably causes
a vibrant impression. The following are required for beautiful
hair appearance along with an impression of depth and vibrancy:
(a) Internal structure without light scattering origins is essential
to observe vivid colored highlights from the back surface. (b)
Well-ordered cuticles are essential to get intensive double
highlights from the front and back surfaces. (c) A properly
curved hairstyle is essential to obtaining a more vibrant impression.
387
J. Cosmet.
Sci., 53, 403-407 (November/December 2002)
AUTHOR INDEX
TO VOLUME 53 403
J. Cosmet.
Sci., 53, 409-411 (November/December 2002)
SUBJECT
INDEX TO VOLUME 53 409
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