J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 243-248 (September/October 2002)
A survey of consumer cosmetic products and salon
preparations for alpha hydroxy acids
JEAN C. HUBINGER, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 5100 Point
Branch Parkway, College Park, MD 20740.
Accepted for publication March 21, 2002.
Synopsis
The Food and Drug Administration has completed a survey
of consumer and salon/professional cosmetic products for glycolic
and lactic acids, and product pH, to determine conformity with
recommended levels established by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review
(CIR). In twenty-five consumer products, concentrations of glycolic
and lactic acid ranged from 1.1% to 8.7%. Two products had pHs
lower than the recommended minimum of 3.5. In seventeen salon/professional
products, glycolic and lactic acids were found at levels ranging
from 0.9% to 28.5%. Two salon products had pHs significantly
lower than the 3.0 recommended by the CIR. About half of the
products contained either a sunscreen or a recommendation for
the use of a sunscreen.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 249-261 (September/October 2002)
Dynamic hairspray analysis. III. Theoretical
considerations
J. JACHOWICZ, International Specialty Products, Wayne, NJ 07470.
Accepted for publication March 15, 2002.
Synopsis
Model mechanical calculations were carried out to simulate
the properties of hair fiber assemblies operating in the bending
mode. It was assumed that the fibers were in omega-loop configuration
(as in experimental work), and the theory of deformation of
thin rings provided a fundamental relationship between stress
and strain. A dependence on the stiffness of multi-fiber assembly
was derived and verified empirically. Theoretical bending stiffness
for fixative-treated hair was calculated for various model fiber
distributions by calculating their area moment of inertia according
to the parallel axis theorem. General equations for stiffness
of fiber assemblies were derived for cross sections placed on
cubic and hexagonal lattices. The results suggest a good agreement
between the theoretical and experimental data.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 263-268 (September/October 2002)
Application of a non-invasive method to study
the moisturizing effect of formulations containing vitamins
A or E or ceramide on human skin
GISLAINE RICCI LEONARDI, LORENA RIGO GASPAR, and PATRI´CIA
M. B. G. MAIA CAMPOS, Faculty of Health Sciences, Department
of Pharmacy, Methodist University of Piracicaba, Piracicaba,
Sa˜o Paulo (G.R.L.), and Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences
of Ribeira˜o Preto, University of Sa˜o Paulo, Ribeira˜o Preto,
Sa˜o Paulo (L.R.G., P.M.B.G.M.C.), Brazil.
Accepted for publication April 30, 2002.
Synopsis
Moisturizers containing vitamins A and E as well as ceramides
are believed to improve the skin condition by increasing the
water content of the stratum corneum. The aim of this research
was to evaluate, through the capacitance method (a non-invasive
method), the moisturizing effect of an O/W emulsion (non-ionic
self-emulsifying base) containing vitamin A palmitate, vitamin
E acetate, and ceramide III on human skin. The studies were
carried out on a group of 40 healthy Caucasian female test subjects
between 30 and 45 years of age, using the Corneometer CM 825
PC. Skin measurements were taken from the volunteers at 7 and
30 days after daily use (twice a day) of the tested products.
The presence of vitamins A and E or ceramide III did not cause
an improvement in the hydration of the stratum corneum, which
means that none of those compounds strengthens the hydration
effectiveness of the base formulations used, at least at the
doses tested. The interpretation of electrical measurement regarding
skin moisture should be made with caution; thus the results
observed in this study show the importance of using different
approaches (or methodologies) to verify the performance of the
formulas tested. We conclude that, at the low doses typically
used in cosmetic formulations, vitamins A and E and ceramide
III are not likely to contribute to the hydrating effects of
the base moisturizing formulation when assessed by capacitance.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 269-282 (September/October 2002)
Comparative study of the effects of cosmetic
formulations with or without hydroxy acids on hairless mouse
epidermis by histopathologic, morphometric, and stereologic
evaluation
LU´ CIA HELENA TERENCIANI RODRIGUES and PATRICIA M. B. G. MAIA
CAMPOS, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeira˜o Preto,
University of Sa˜o Paulo, Av. do Cafe´, s/n, 14040-903, Ribeira˜o
Preto, SP, Brazil.
Accepted for publication March 15, 2002.
Synopsis
Hydroxy acids have been extensively used in cosmetic and
dermatologic formulations because of their satisfactory results
in terms of maintaining a young and healthy skin and in recovering
aged skin. The purpose of the present study was to examine whether
treatment with glycolic acid, lactic acid, a fruit acids mixture,
malic acid ester, or salicylic esters of lipophilic acid produces
different cosmetic results and produces changes in hairless
mice epidermis. Histopathologic, morphometric, and stereologic
studies were carried out to investigate the possible alterations
caused by formulations containing hydroxy acids or derivatives.
Statistical analysis from the results indicate that, under present
experimental conditions, formulations containing glycolic acid
or lactic acid or a fruit acids mixture or malic acid ester
acted on the epidermis, causing a thickening of the epithelium
where the basal and spinous layers also showed increased thickness.
The cells reached the largest volume, and the nuclei were also
more voluminous. The results demonstrate that cosmetic benefits
from the use of hydroxy acids are caused by modification of
the skin surface, the epidermis. The hydroxy acids were more
effective when compared with the control and their derivatives
in a mouse model.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 283-286 (September/October 2002)
Mechanisms in combination cleaner/conditioner
systems
E. D. GODDARD, 9 Hatsawap Road, Cambridge, MD 21613.
Accepted for publication April 30, 2002.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 287-289 (September/October 2002)
Abstracts
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Japan Vol. 35, No. 4, 2001*
* These abstracts appear exactly as they were originally
published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic
Science.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 291-319 (September/October 2002)
Papers presented at the Annual Scientific Seminar
of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
May 9-10, 2002 Hyatt Regency San Antonio San Antonio, Texas
291
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