J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 199–208 (July/August 2002)
Development and characterization of rosin-based
polymer and its application as a cream base
V. T. DHANORKAR, R. S. GAWANDE, B. B. GOGTE, and A. K. DORLE,
Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University Campus (V.T.D.,
R.S.G., A.K.D.), and Laxminarayan Institute of Technology (V.T.D.,
B.B.G.), Nagpur University, Nagpur 440 010 (MS), India.
Accepted for publication January 31, 2002.
Synopsis
The literature contains many references to the wide range of
uses of rosin-based polymers, but little has appeared in the
area of rosin-based polymers used as cream bases. Various rosin
polymers based on glycerol, sorbitol, and pentaerythritol were
prepared and screened for efficacy as cream bases. Among these
polymers, polymer 2 (glycerol-based) is reported in the present
study as it produced creams with a better stability and release
profile as compared to other creams. The creams were formulated
employing polymer 2 (P2) and Tween 60 as surfactants. The stability
of the prepared creams, as well as the diclofenac diethylammonium
release pattern, was investigated using particle size analysis,
conductivity, relative dielectric constant, spreadability, and
irritation potential measurement, and was compared with that
of creams containing Tween 60 (RT) prepared in the laboratory.
The release of the drug, diclofenac diethylammonium, was measured
after eight hours and compared with a standard cream (RT) and
a marketed cream (RM).
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 209–218 (July/August 2002)
An in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo demonstration
of the lipolytic effect of slimming liposomes: An unexpected
a2-adrenergic antagonism
L. THOLON, G. NELIAT, C. CHESNE, D. SABOUREAU, E. PERRIER,
and J.-E. BRANKA, Coletica, 32 rue Saint Jean de Dieu, 69007
Lyon (L.T., E.P., J.-E.B.), Cerep, Le Bois l’Eveˆque, 86660
Celles L’Evescault (G.N., J.-E.B.), Biopredic, 14–18 rue Jean
Pecker, 35000 Rennes (C.C.), and Decs, 1 rue du Golf, Parc Innolin,
33700 Me´rignac (D.S.), France.
Accepted for publication March 15, 2002.
Synopsis
Most of the slimming products already developed for cosmetic
applications did not result from strategies that integrate whole
lipolysis-regulating mechanisms. We thus focused our attention
on a more complete integration of these mechanisms and we developed
slimming liposomes (SLC) containing two microcirculation activators,
i.e., esculoside and Centella asiatica extracts, one phosphodiesterase
inhibitor, i.e., caffeine, and one fatty acid-b oxidation activator,
i.e., L-carnitine. The validity of our approach was assessed
through (a) in vitro tests demonstrating that SLC induced a
dramatic increase in the cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP)
content in human adipocytes, with a subsequent rise in the nonesterified
fatty acids (NEFA) content of human adipocyte incubation medium,
and (b) in vivo studies showing that SLC could provide an actual
potent slimming effect on human volunteers. Moreover, we give
here, through binding experiments, the unambiguous demonstration
that SLC is able to antagonize the a2-adrenergic receptor that
is known to reduce intracellular AMPc content and, subsequently,
to down-regulate lipolysis. This a2-adrenergic antagonism has
never been reported for any component of SLC, and this work
is the first demonstration of the a2-adrenergic antagonism of
such a combination of active liposome compounds.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 219–228 (July/August 2002)
Investigations of cosmetically treated human
hair by differential scanning calorimetry in water
F.-J. WORTMANN, C. SPRINGOB, and G. SENDELBACH, Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitut
e.V., Veltmanplatz 8, D-52062 Aachen (F.-J.W.), and Wella AG,
Berliner Allee 65, D-64274 Darmstadt (C.S., G.S.), Germany.
Accepted for publication March 15, 2002.
Presented at the 21st IFSCC International Congress, Berlin,
2000.
Synopsis
By applying differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) on human
hair in water, the thermal stability of hair’s major morphological
components is determined. Against the background of the two-phase
model for a-keratins, these components are identified as the
partially helical, fibrous intermediate filaments (IF) and the
intermediate filament associated-proteins (IFAP) as a cross-linked,
amorphous matrix. DSC yields the denaturation enthalpy DHD,
which depends on the amount and structural integrity of the
a-helical material, and the temperature TD, which is kinetically
controlled by the cross-link density of the matrix. To assess
the effects of cosmetic treatments, hairs were investigated
that had undergone either multiple bleaching or perm-waving
treatments. The respective dependencies between denaturation
temperature and enthalpy show that both morphological components
are similarly affected by bleaching, while reductive damage,
in comparison, is more pronounced in the IFs. For both types
of treatments, changes in enthalpy follow apparent first-order
kinetics with respect to the number of treatments as well as
treatment time (perm-waving), yielding characteristic reaction
rate constants. It appears that DSC in water is an especially
suitable method to determine the kinetics of damage formation
in human hair resulting from cosmetic treatments.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 229–236 (July/August 2002)
Glycerin (glycerol): Current insights into the
functional properties of a classic cosmetic raw material
PAUL THAU, PaCar Tech, LLC, 181 Dogwood Lane, Berkeley Heights,
NJ 07922. Accepted for publication March 15, 2002.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 237–240 (July/August 2002)
A test for antioxidant activity in cosmetic
formulations
E. PELLE, T. MAMMONE, K. MARENUS, D. DICANIO, and D. MAES,
Estee Lauder Research Laboratories, 125 Pinelawn Road, Melville,
NY 11747.
Accepted for publication March 15, 2002.
Synopsis
The aim of this study was to develop a technique to assay for
the activity of antioxidants in a finished cosmetic product.
This was accomplished by adapting the Randox Assay for Total
Antioxidant Status kit so that diluted samples could be evaluated
by kinetic as well as end-point determinations. Using this technique,
we found that a finished product had an IC50 of 0.07 gm of product
and a relative antioxidant activity concentration of 52.7 nmoles/mg.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 241–242 (July/August 2002)
Abstracts
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan
Vol. 35, No. 3, 2001*
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