J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 81-87 (March/April 2002)
Comparison of the moisturization efficacy of
two vaginal moisturizers: Pectin versus polycarbophil technologies
MICHAEL CASWELL and MICHAEL KANE, C.B.
Fleet Company, Inc., 4615 Murray Place, Lynchburg, VA 2450
Accepted for publication December 31, 2001.
Synopsis
This study was designed to compare the vaginal deposition and
moisturization of two vaginal moisturizers, Summer's Evet (SE),
based on pectin, and Replenst (Rp), based on polycarbophil,
in a double-blind crossover study design. Fifty-one female patients
were each randomly assigned to one of two treatment groups.
After a one-week washout period, the products were used for
two weeks. After another one-week washout period, product assignments
were switched. Colposcopy examinations were performed at the
beginning and at the end of each product use. Of the forty-seven
patients completing the study, 41 (87%) were found to have no
vaginal residue after SE vaginal moisturizer, while only 25
(53%) were found to have no vaginal residue after using Rp vaginal
moisturizer. No difference in relief of vaginal dryness or in
product acceptance was found between the two products. This
study shows that the use of SE vaginal moisturizer, based on
pectin, resulted in significantly less vaginal residue compared
to Rp vaginal moisturizer, based on polycarbophil, and in comparable
relief of vaginal dryness. These results strongly suggest that
bioadhesion is not important in vaginal moisturizers.
1
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 89-100 (March/April 2002)
Influence of internal structures of hair
fiber on hair appearance. I. Light scattering from the porous
structure of the medulla of human hair
SHINOBU NAGASE, SATOSHI SHIBUICHI, KENICHI ANDO, EMIKO KARIYA,
and NAOKI SATOH, Hair Care Research Laboratories, Kao Corporation,
1-3, Bunka 2-chome, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 131-8501, Japan.
Accepted for publication December 31, 2001. Based on a presentation
at the 21st IFSCC Congress, Berlin, Germany, September 12, 2000.
Synopsis
In this study the influence of the medulla structure on
hair appearance was examined. Hair with a porous medulla gave
a whitish and lusterless appearance because of light scattering
from the fiber center, whereas in the cases without pores, a
clear and brilliant appearance was observed. The optical influences
of the medulla pores were measured by a spectral goniophotometer,
and obtained data were analyzed in terms of the CIE L*a*b* color
system. Both contrasts in lightness and apparent color (chroma
and hue) decreased in the hair with medulla pores, and the decreases
in contrast caused a whitish and lusterless appearance. The
distribution of the amount of medulla pores was investigated
for Japanese females. The histogram was further analyzed by
hair care behavior of individual panelists, and it was found
that the pores in the medulla can be generated in a heat-drying
process. 89
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 101-119 (March/April 2002)
Optimization and validation of an analytical
procedure for the determination of oxidative hair dyes in commercial
cosmetic formulations
URSULA VINCENT, GUY BORDIN, and ADELA R. RODRIGUEZ, European
Commission, Joint Research Centre, Institute for Reference Materials
and Measurements, Retieseweg, B-2440 Geel, Belgium.
Accepted for publication December 31, 2001.
Synopsis
A method has been developed and validated for the analysis of
commonly used intermediates of oxidative hair dyes in commercial
cosmetic formulations, including both liquid and cream forms,
in dark and blonde shades. The commercial formulations are submitted
to extraction by an organic solvent, and the resulting aqueous
phase is analyzed by reverse-phase HPLC with a gradient elution
and detection with DAD and/or ESI-MS-MS. A spectra library containing
200-400 nm spectra of the target substances and their HPLC retention
times has been recorded for the identification. The quantification
of the target substances is also performed after spiking of
the commercial formulations, using an external calibration.
The recoveries obtained are very good for all selected intermediates.
The whole procedure has been found to be highly suitable for
the identification and quantification of dye intermediates.
Also implemented has been a database containing (a) the retention
times, (b) the spectral, MS, and MS/MS characteristics of the
intermediates, (c) acidity constant values of some intermediates
of interest experimentally determined and compared to the available
NIST values, (d) the chromatographic conditions used, (e) the
behavior towards extraction of dye intermediates, and (f) matrix
compounds. 101
J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 121-126 (March/April 2002)
Simultaneous determination of alpha and beta
hydroxyl acids in personal care products by capillary gas chromatography
K. MOLEVER, Research and Development Department, The Dial
Corporation, 15101 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, AZ 85254.
Accepted for publication December 31, 2001.
Synopsis
A simple and rapid procedure is described for the isolation,
silylation, and simultaneous capillary gas chromatographic quantitation
of alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids in various personal
care products. The sample is dissolved in acidified N,N-dimethylformamide
to simultaneously acidify/extract the hydroxy acids; a portion
is then trimethylsilyl derivatized with BSTFA and quantified
by capillary gas chromatography (GC) using flame ionization
detection.
121 J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 127-150 (March/April 2002)
Papers Presented at the 2001 Annual Scientific
Meeting and Technology Showcase (Friday's Program) 127
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