J.
Cosmet. Sci.,
52, 265–280 (September/October
2001)
Elucidating
penetration pathways into the hair fiber using novel microscopic techniques
C.
L. GUMMER, Procter
& Gamble Technical Centres
Ltd., Rusham Park, Whitehall
Lane, Egham,
Surrey,
TW20 9NW,
United Kingdom.
Accepted for publication May 31, 2001.
Synopsis
Much
controversy exists regarding the route of penetration of
molecules into hair fibers. In brief, there are two schools
of thought. The first argument is that molecules enter the
hair fiber via the cell membrane complex (cmc) of the cuticle and then diffuse throughout the cortex
via both the intercellular cement and the bulk of individual
cortical cells. The second approach concludes that entry
to the fiber is via the endocuticle and other non-keratinous parts of the fiber. In
the latter case the cmc is definitely
not considered to have a role in the penetration of molecules
into the fiber. The tools available for studying penetration
into the fiber, e.g., light and electron microscopy, mean
that it is usually only possible to extract static information
from a dynamic process. Similarly, great care is needed
in the interpretation of images produced by the various
techniques. Where a molecule is seen to end up does not
always indicate how it got there! In these studies I have
used novel derivations of conventional electron microscopic
techniques, combined with early photographic chemistry,
to elucidate further the pathways of penetration into the
hair fiber. From these studies one can conclude that both
arguments describing penetration into the fiber are complementary,
valid, and highly relevant. The techniques allow one to
visualize material within the cell membrane complex of the
cuticle. In addition, these studies show that the high-sulphur proteins of the cuticle, usually considered as highly
cross-linked and inaccessible, are easily penetrated. Therefore,
all of the structures within a hair fiber should be considered
as penetration routes into the hair fiber for the delivery
of industrial and cosmetic materials, even though they may
not form continuous pathways throughout the hair. The hair
should be viewed as a structure composed of a number of
compartments of differing capacity, chemistry, and accessibility,
rather than as continuous pathways from the surface to the
center of the fiber.
J.
Cosmet. Sci.,
52, 281–295 (September/October
2001)
Dynamic hairspray analysis. II. Effect of polymer,
hair type, and solvent composition
J.
JACHOWICZ and K. YAO, International Specialty
Products, Wayne, NJ 07470.
Accepted for publication May 31, 2001.
Synopsis
A
texture analyzer was employed to study the properties of
hairspray resins by measuring a number of mechanical parameters
of hair modified by them. Hairset stiffness, stiffness retention at high humidity, and
duration and magnitude of polymer film tackiness during
drying were the properties employed to characterize fixative-treated
hair. They were investigated for formulations containing
ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, butyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer,
vinyl caprolactam/PVP/dimethylaminoethyl
methacrylate copolymer, VA/butyl
maleate/isobornyl acrylate
copolymer, and polymer blends such as poly(methylvinylether) (PMVE) - ethyl
ester of PVM/MA copolymer. It was demonstrated that the
properties of hair treated with a fixative are affected
by the concentration and molecular weight of a polymer,
low-molecularweight additives
that can modify the mechanical, surface, or interfacial
properties of a polymer film, and the presence of water
in the formulation. It was also shown, that the type of
hair employed, such as virgin, untreated hair or hair damaged
by bleaching, can also have an effect on the performance
of a given hairspray formulation. For compositions based
on blends of PMVE and ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, the
employed method demonstrated the sensitivity of the properties
of polymer blends to the presence of a hydrophilic component
such as PMVE.
J.
Cosmet. Sci.,
52, 297–311 (September/October)
2001
Evaluation
of a new X-ray fluorescent analysis technique for the creation of
a Nordic hair database: Elemental distributions within the root
and the virgin segment of hair fibers
B.
STOCKLASSA, M. ARANSAY-VITORES, G. NILSSON, C.
KARLSSON, D. WIEGLEB, and B. FORSLIND, Cox Analytical
Systems AB, Gothenburg (B.S.), National Laboratory
of Forensic Science, Linko¨ping (M.A.-V., G.N, C.K.), and EDRG, Department
of Medical Biophysics, Karolinska
Institute, Stockholm (D.W., B.F.), Sweden.
Accepted for publication May 31, 2001.
Synopsis
A
new, non-destructive X-ray fluorescence technique for quantitative
estimation of elemental content in biological tissues has
been developed. Technical and instrumental characteristics
of the ITRAX X-ray spectrometer have been evaluated in relation
to the properties of biological samples, i.e., human hair
fibers. Thus, attenuation variations of the fluorescent
X-rays in the hair bulk mass were demonstrated by analysis
of sulfur, calcium, and zinc in a virgin part near the root
of one hair fiber with elliptical cross section. By rotation
of the hair fiber and successive analyses made of the same
part of the hair fiber, the results showed that concentrations
of elements varied as functions of the diameter of the analyzed
hair volume. Other sources of errors are also discussed.
The ITRAX instrument allows for precise, fast, non-destructive,
simultaneous, quantitative recording of the detected elements
and trace elements down to levels of 1 ppm
(µg/g). It was used for assessment of normal values of physiologically
important elements present in hair in a cohort of normal,
healthy Swedish, Caucasian individuals. The database constructed
from data retrieved from a conceivably homogenous ethnic
set of individuals represents, to our knowledge, the first
of its kind.
J.
Cosmet. Sci.,
52, 313–324 (September/October
2001)
Investigations
on the occlusive properties of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN)
S.
A. WISSING, A. LIPPACHER, and R. H. MU¨ LLER, Department of Pharmaceutics, Biopharmaceutics and Biotechnology, The Free University
of Berlin,
Kelchstrasse 31, D-12169 Berlin,
Germany.
Accepted for publication May 31, 2001.
Synopsis
Skin
hydration can be influenced to a great extent by occlusive
compounds. Conventional highly occlusive compounds tend
to have an unacceptable appearance. Therefore, the development
of innovative occlusive topicals
is an essential issue regarding the formulation of cosmetic
and pharmaceutical preparations. Solid lipid nanoparticles
(SLN™) represent a novel carrier system for controlled release
of topical cosmetic and pharmaceutical compounds. In addition
to their controlled release characteristics, it has been
found that SLN have an occlusive effect. The extent of the
occlusive effect depends on various factors such as particle
size, applied sample volume, lipid concentration, and crystallinity
of the lipid matrix. These factors have been investigated
in detail by an in vitro test, and the obtained data
give insight into their importance.
J.
Cosmet. Sci.,
52, 325–327 (September/October
2001)
Abstracts
Journal
of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan
Vol.
34, No. 4, 2000*
*
These abstracts appear exactly as they were originally published.
They have not been edited by the Journal
of Cosmetic Science.
J.
Cosmet. Sci.,
52, 329–353 (September/October
2001)
Papers
presented at the Annual Scientific Seminar of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Thursday’s
Program)
May 10–11, 2001
Sheraton
New Orleans
New Orleans, Louisiana
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