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SCC Monographs
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8. LIPSTICK TECHNOLOGY |
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LIPSTICK TECHNOLOGY
The use of colorants to enhance the appearance of the lips dates
back to antiquity. Paintings and archaeological excavations
from early Egyptian, Babylonian and Sumerian civilizations confirm
that women in these early societies painted their lips with
mixtures of hematite and red ochre in vegetable oil or animal
fat. The Syrians, Persians, Greeks and Romans, in turn, all
used lip and facial cosmetics of one form of another for aesthetic,
medical or ritualistic purposes. Girls in ancient Athens, for
example, use extracts of vegetables, seaweed and mulberry focus
to color their lips and cheeks and the poet Ovid gave Roman
maidens detailed written advice on applying rouge and powder
to their faces. The modern-day lipstick, comprising a molded
base of oil and wax, together with one or more dissolved or
suspended colorants, made its first appearance just before World
War I. In the 1920s eosin (today known as D & C Red No. 21)
began to replace carmine as the lip colorant of choice; other
fluorescein-based stains soon followed, among them tetrachlootetrabromofluorescein
(D & C Red No. 7) and dibromofluorescein (D & C Orange No. 5).
The patent literature of the first half of the 20th century
is replete with examples of solid lip colorant compositions
containing a variety of water-soluble stains and new lipstick
mold figurations, as well as descriptions of lipstick holders
and delivery mechanisms which may be considered the forerunner
of our present day lipstick cases. All of these innovations
contributed to the evolution of the form and feel of present-day
lipsticks. Today's consumer has a plethora of lip-coloring cosmetics
to choose from, ranging from full-coverage lipsticks to sheer
or colorless lip glosses, all available in a choice of stick,
pot or paint vehicles. In addition, contemporary lipsticks may
be further classified by primary clorant (stain or pigment),
appearance (cream or pearl) or finish on lips (matte or glossy).
Lipstick wax bases may also be categorized by chemical class
(organic, silicone), source (natural, synthetic), function (moisturizing,
contouring) and so on. This monograph provides an overview of
the art and science of modern lipstick formulation. A description
of the various physical and chemical properties of the primary
constituents of lipsticks will be presented, along with the
impact these materials and their inherent properties have on
the ultimate aesthetics of the finished product. |
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